čas přidán 8. 08. 2022
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Breaking down 10 things to avoid when buying a Tesla that could ruin your car if you aren't careful.
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You never talk a bout the LFP Model 3 battery! Why you talk about it?
Because his dream ka is the model 3 plaid🤣
coupon didn't work for me. Maybe expired?
Thanks for the scooter 🛴 discount. Gonna buy one for me and one for my son!
At the rate the Tesla stock is dropping $10 a day in another two weeks it'll be worthless
Excellent advice! In addition, because of the low clearance, don’t drive too far forward on parking barriers or yo’u’ll damage the under body shield as I did. Also due to no spare tire, pack an inflator so you won’t be tempted to drive on a flat.
no spare on a 70k car? lmao
@SneakDeBeef this has been common for a long time. Our last ICE car, a 2009 Ford Mondeo, also came with just an emergency inflator and bottle of "repair" gunk (which did let me drive the last 8km home the one time I needed it).
@SneakDeBeef man that's why I got me a "used" 35k car.. came with a spare, just no dang "wheel lock key" lol.
Do you have a 3 or a Y? With my Y, I find there's quite a bit of clearance, even if I drive too far forward over a parking barrier. (Not that I'm recommending it. :-) )
@cufflink44 And then you get a Performance, and the extra clearance is almost gone again. Be careful!
Great show, Ryan! Thanks! Since we bought our 2020 Model Y, I have been driving more and noticing that I wish the driver's sun visor would work in two directions---both forward and to the left side simultaneously. This would be very helpful when driving on a winding road into the sunset. Peace
This is a problem that was solved a long time ago. My 1987 Ford Taurus had essentially two sun visors on the driver side. The main visor could swing to the side window and then a second visor could fold down to shade the front. I don't know why more vehicles don't have this feature.
@R. Brown Agreed, I had the same on my 93 Pontiac Bonneville. All cars should have that.
Superb video, Ryan! Extremely valuable info for all Tesla (and other EUV) owners. I also enjoy your tight editing and crisp presentation. You set a standard that many presenters on CS-tv could learn from.
Yes sir. He is very good. Thanks for speaking my mind!😏
Great video sir!!! P.S. I would add that, setting the Autopilot speed too high can cause it to steer out off its lane. This happens to me mainly in parkways, if the speed limit is 55 setting it to 70 is a problem in certain curves specially when there's a hill. Sometimes it slows down but other times it goes over the lane and could hit the shoulder if you don't take control. I only increase the speed 10mph+ above the speed limit in large interstate highways... The fact ppl know when NOT to use Autopilot makes me wonder how valuable are the safety stats Tesla publishes. 🤷♂️
Agreed, my usual local highways don’t have very many curves so I never noticed. Went on a roadtrip to LA where the route curves a lot in some areas, and at the max Autopilot speed of 85 mph, the car did not stay in the lane at all and actually went either into the shoulder or the next lane…was very scary and I ended up disabling AP when a curve came up because of how little effort it made at staying in the lane.
@Vijay Raveendran 85 is a high on curvy highways.
@Stefan Steiner Agree... Maybe it should display a warning.
Weird, my m3 won't let me go higher than the mandated km at lower speeds. Only once you're at 100 km/h or 60 mph will it let me cruise at at the maximum 150 km/h, something I always accepted as a very logical safety issue.
@Daergarz I've noticed that in some local streets that have 30 or 45 mph speed limit.
The frunk closure and manual door opening issues definitely need a design revision. Good design is achieved when instruction manuals aren’t necessary! As a Tesla driver, I know how to deal with these things, but my passengers are a concern and they don’t read the manuals. One other thing that could ruin your Tesla: opening passenger doors into a storm force wind. I’m not too sure how much lateral force those frameless windows can take before they crack, but gale force winds are common in Scotland. I did require door opening once in a storm. No problems, but in hind sight I’d have opened the windows prior to opening the doors just to be safe.
I agree on your points. About 100% of people have trouble finding the door open button as well as opening the door with those odd handles on my model Y
What I'd love to see on a tesla is the ability to dynamically limit speed based on speeds I set. In small UK villages and windy roads where there is limited line markings on the road (let alone no curbs and cars parked on the roadside, half into the road) setting the car to drive at 30mph in autopilot just doesn't work - there's too many obstacles and it keep slamming on the brakes. I'd like manual control to drive "up to" 30mph, but not exceeding - likewise up to any speed I decide to set, so I don't have to worry whether I'm exceeding a speed limit while I'm keeping my eyes on the road for hazards.
The same happens here in France. I set the cruise control to 30, 50 or 70, and it slams the brakes on for random reasons. If you have found the solution to this, please let me know (I'm sure there is one, but there are so many options that I haven't had the chance to test them all).
Thank you for this video. A) derp on my part didn’t know there was a manual door release and good to know for emergencies B) probably won’t let riders know there’s one because I don’t want them defaulting to that! Thanks again for shedding light on things I didn’t even think about. The physical things (non-software related) are the ones I truly take note because I want this beautiful car to stay that way as long as possible
I would actually teach people who sit in the front seat of my car how yo use the opening button so that they don’t reset to the manual release. I know that my hand just naturally sat on the opener from using handles like them in older non Tesla vehicles. If they want to sit in the front seats, then they must think and behave like an adult and use the buttons to open the door. Otherwise they get to sit in the back like a child.
Tesla should put the recommended charging information for the model/battery directly on the charging screen to avoid confusion.
They do. I tried to set my new model 3 below 100% and it told me I shouldn't do that.. Now I know why after watching this video. :) :)
Good list. I'd add "Don't tow it with wheels on the ground" as well. It's something that's fairly unique to Tesla, or other BEV's as well I assume.
unless you're in the car, and you're intentionally trying to false regen/charge the car....lol
Any awd car pretty much
I damaged my wheel exactly the same way showed in your video after taking delivery 3 weeks later. I hope more people can watch this video to avoid the damage
I did it on a hire car. They should warn everyone of the danger or change the wheels to ones that are better.
If you own a 3 or a y watch your right turns. Because you sit a bit forward in the car, when you turn your rear wheels are not as far along as you think. This is responsible for every curb rash that has happened on my 3. Right rear tire contacting the curb. I have about 8% range loss just by the indicator after 4.25 years and 90,000 miles. I don't think that is to bad. I charge 100% only a few times per year mostly at the start of a long road trip and then maybe at a hotel where I can charge and avoid a Supercharger stop.
Most EVs have much longer wheel base than gas cars, that is why rear wheels can so easily hit curb while turning.
Yeah, my wife hit a curb in her school parking lot yesterday... 10 days into ownership... UGH! 20'' Induction wheel, banged.
@Harry Eichelberger well maybe it's cause you people can't drive. I drive a 2017 camaro SS and 2022 model 3 performance and I have yet to hit the curves.
It's so nice to have a car company that gives you tips on maintaining your car so much so they make program alterations and notifications in the car itself. That's good engineering from a company with a leader who cares about their customers and not their own profit margins only.
Love the videos! You put so much time and work into them and they make my day better
Just took delivery on my M3 RWD after a 7 month wait. I set it to 80%. Thank you so much for this video! I had no idea that it should be at 100% setting and charged to 100% at leastone time per week.
Also. Do not install aftermarket door puddle lamps. It will mess with your window dropping when you open the door.
I haven't seen that, I installed 3rd party puddle lights that shine the Tesla emblem on ground. Looks very classy at night. In 2 years, no interference with windows.
Saw your previous two issues with rear collision repairs referenced in an article on one of my news feeds…the point was how expensive Tesla’s (and other EV’s) are to repair when compared to conventional ICE cars. I read articles like this with a bit of suspicion because many seem to be very biased against Tesla. My MYLR2021 was clipped on the rear driver side when parked. The bumper cover and the unit below were scraped and the cover was separated from the brackets. Through Tesla, I was able to locate a local Tesla certified repair shop and scheduled the work…total cost is below $2,000. I asked for a comparison as if the same issue occurred with my 2014 MerBenz 350 Cabriolet…The cost for the MB was $700 more. The shop also indicated that they are continually waiting for parts for Honda’s and Toyota’s, in some cases up to 4 months. Interesting experience…was pleased that all went well and back on the road in a reasonable time.
If a Mercedes Benz is only $700 more, it's already really expensive. Nobody said it costed more to repair a Tesla than a Mercedes; They're saying it costs more to repair a Tesla than a Ford, Chevy, Subaru, etc. (I imagine a Ford repair of that kind would have been $1.2k). Tesla has luxury repair costs with sub-economy-car panel gaps, and an advertising emphasis on cost savings. That's the problem. Nobody can tell if they are economy cars or luxury cars, so the luxury crowd is mad at quality control and the economy crowd is mad at repair costs. Note that the luxury crowd (Like Benz owners) are not mad at the repair costs, just like you, an aforementioned Benz driver. They aren't obscene repair costs, just confusing to those who thought they bought a Tesla to save money.
I have a 2 inch dent on my model S tailgate. Both Tesla and third party body shop said the repair will be replace the entire tailgate and costs about $4500.
Re #5 and curb rash: Many who buy a Tesla seem not to "get it" that the cars are wider than their previous vehicle. Wider cars = more likely to get curb rash. My wife and I both bought new cars after many years. Her's was wider and she (and I) curb rashed her wheels, both times turning right in a parking lot. I was "lucky" that I bought my Tesla later, after learning the lesson.
Is there an auto-parking feature that would mitigate the wheel rash issue? Unfortunately, I am not a Tesla owner but now with the price change I am considering it. This year I am scheduled to replace my 2007 Ford Escape hybrid which has worked very well albeit not quite achieving the expected mileage it has done very well currently at 170K miles.
Yep…was just trying to decide on rim protection and this put my decision right over the top 👍
What is rim protection? Can you be specific please? Thank you in advance
@Andrea Martone rim protection is essentially covers or barriers that click onto a preexisting wheel rim. It juts out slightly from the rim and provides a buffer. This way, like mentioned in the video, instead of getting road rash on the wheel, the rim protector takes the damage leaving the wheel itself clean and not scuffed.
I learned the hard way that the Tesla Model Y needs to have an alignment done soon after taking delivery. I had a flat many miles away from the nearest town in North Texas. Amarillo was the nearest town, but when I searched for a replacement tire there were none available until Monday (the flat was on Friday). The inner tread on both front tires was completely worn through.
Oh, that's scary.
Useful video. I have to say that I have been recharging my 2015 LEAF in the worst way possible, some of the time. I regularly drain it down to zero and then recharge it back up to 100%, and then keep it there for 8 hours or overnight. None of this is because I want to or am trying to damage the battery, but because of necessity and because the UI for the LEAF is horrible. There may be an app, but it was so terrible I couldn't sign in even once when I first got the car. Average battery degradation though. 68K miles and down 1 bar. 🤷♂️
Watching this 1 hour after I accidentally gave my passenger front wheel curb rash because of the bad driving practices of people where I live. Luckily it is not that much and I hope it can be repaired. Wondering if this is something Tesla would cover or need to fix themselves. Oh, and it hasn't even been 1 week since I got the car for the first time. Model 3.
Got a curb rash on the right side wheels of my model X. Good to know it's common for Tesla's. Now being very carefully in parking lots. Nice Job explaining in detail. Thanks !
This is not a common thing for teslas... this is common on any vehicle with people that arent the best drivers....
@Rafal Delano Off course one does not have to be a genius to know this. I pointed it out as it happened to me and so did Ryan. I don’t use FSD in parking lots as I’ve heard anecdotally the turns in tight spots can cause a rash. Love my Tesla !
I've driven a Model Y for almost two years. This is the first I've heard of the frunk hood closing info - and I read the manual. Thanks. I've also driven FSD for this entire time, including two cross country trips, and four trips up the California coast and back. It's terrific, but it still does a lot of 'dumb things,' - you don't want to cheat that system. However, I don't like the way Tesla does the hand on the wheel requirement. I've been driving for so many years when I have both hands on the wheel it's so balanced my Model Y registers this as no hands on the wheel. It's basically de-trained me to use only one hand on the wheel. Annoying. And don't get caught after an accident having a record somewhere of buying one of those steering wheel weight cheats. So why bother with FSD? Simple, on a long trip there's an incredible amount of stress and effort in just keeping the car in the lane - FSD eliminates that. It makes driving cross country actually relaxing and fun. I also use it on surface streets and for short errand runs. I use it pretty much when ever I can. The current hand position recommendation is 3 and 9 positions on the steering wheel. I was taught 10 and 2. Why the change? The airbag. If you have a hand high on the steering wheel and the airbag goes off with your hand in the way you Mike Tyson punch yourself in the face. I just wish they hadn't put the cross bar right in that spot. I've got a ding in my Tesla. One of the Tesla recommended body shops gave me some nonsense about how they have to disconnect the high voltage battery to work on the fender. Sounds like complete bunk to me, and I doubt that Tesla would consider that shop 'certified' for that. For now I have to live with the ding. (Are all body shops crooked? There's one on the list I already knew was crooked.)
Thanks for the tips Ryan, most of them I already knew about or they are what I think of is common sense. I am scheduled to get my new Tesla in the next 4 weeks or so. Cheers!
Great video for those that did NOT look at the training videos provided by Tesla (for some of the tips). Letting your battery go down to 0% seems just plain stupid and again points back to people not watching the training videos.
I used Auto Pilot a lot during my 5,500+ mile road trip (Sacramento > Louisville > Sacramento) last month. Along with the charging stops (during which I’d get out and have a little walkabout), Auto Pilot helped me arrive at my destination feeling relaxed. My average daily drive was ~450 miles. Even my longer driving days (650+ miles) were made much more comfortable by Auto Pilot. As Jim Morrison says, “Keep your eyes on the road and your hands upon the wheel.” Good advice when using (or not using) Auto Pilot!
Does your car have “auto pilot”…?
@dustin curran Yes.
@Ernest Z ...was more sarcasm to be honest, you have 4x very short sentences, you mentioned 4x about you having auto pilot, lol.
Hello, how was you’re experience charging on the road? Long, was it easy to find stations, affordable?
@Byuri The whole experience was terrific! The car’s route planning made navigating to superchargers was a snap, the car preconditioned the battery ahead of charging to maximize recharge speed, and the superchargers were up and running,m. For the ten days of driving through urban and rural, rush hour or night… I only had one charger I had to wait to get plugged in. And that was a ten minute wait at a station that only had a handful of stalls. As for the cost, it was much less to supercharge than a comparable ICE vehicle using gasoline (petro). Other road trips I’ve been on since have had similar experiences.
Thanks, huge help. I'm in a rural area, planning on a Y or X purchase, plenty of chargers, but would be interested in rural vs urban service experiences. All the best
CS-tv search: Will Prose He's got multiple purchase and build lists for solar and batteries to charge M3 and MS.
Thanks so much for all the good information. I am not sure how to contact Tesla regarding a safety issue. Do you know how? The blindspot audio signal in our 2021 Tesla Model Y only gets activated when you signal AND start to leave your lane. That seems incredibly dangerous because the driver has to be already leaving the current lane in order to receive a warning not to leave the lane. Our Mercedes SUV blindspot audio signal is activated by the turn signal alone, which is a much safer option. The recent blindspot visual cue on the screen is not sufficient.
Thanks Ryan for these excellent tips. I just got a 2022 model Y, and I've been confused on how to charge it regularly. I live in a Hi-rise Condo that is way to old to offer any charging facilities, so I'm totally dependent on Supercharging at my Ft Lauderdale, Florida location. I've tried charging to 90%, but I am still stressed about damaging my $67,000 battery over time. How can I get TESLA to help us Urban Condo customers who are dependent on Supercharging-ONLY! - I live in Pompano Bch, Fl where I only have access to 2 Superchargers, but since 1 is on a toll road, I'm actually limited to just the 8 stall on Cypress Creek Rd, which is so busy, I have to wait until 12-2 am to easily charge at a lower rate and have access. My greatest FEAR is that this station will soon be overwhelmed as more Floridians wake up to the savings and efficiencies of owning a TESLA. Can you do a video on this problem that might solve this problem? Thanx again for a phenomenal self-help TESLA & EV Channel!
It's a big issue , there needs to be more action given to city development. Retrofitting charging stations into apartment buildings should become the norm.
I had to rely on super charging onoe time as well. I was reading that it can damage the batter 10% and I realized that even if the range of my long range Y dropped by 10% in three years it would still get about 290 mile range which is still plenty. It wont destroy your battery the range just might be a. little bit less.
@That EV Chick Thanx! That's great to know, and makes me feel better. Much appreciated!
@Bantu TESLA 2 No problem. ! Yeah not the end of the world if the huge battery doesn't;'t quite work 100%
i charge super 100% to 80-90% all the time.. use it or lose it.
Great video Ryan.All great tips to keep in mind for me since I will be looking to purchase a Tesla next spring or summer.
Ryan, excellent video as usual. One quick question, does upgrading the USB drive (128GB) from Tesla to a higher capacity (1TB SSD) drive from Sandisk - violate the warranty? I have purchased the SSD drive but have not upgraded yet. Any thoughts? Thanks
No, it will not.
why would it void warranty?
I would like to revisit this, I wonder if there's been much testing/ thought put into what the specs are
Another tip: If you DO charge a battery to 100% (one that shouldn't go past 90%), schedule the charge so that it finishes charging at the moment you will be leaving, so that the battery doesn't sit at 100% for any length of time. When I accidentally charge my phone to 100%, I turn the screen on to run down the battery to 95% (same battery chemistry, a "ternary" battery).
Tesla can't account for each and every possible scenario so they give general guidelines that they know are good. That doesn't mean that everything else is bad. Obviously, charging to 100%, leaving the car in the garage for months, and topping it off whenever it drops is a terrible idea as would be leaving it almost depleted. And obviously, what you are saying is safe. But there's a lot in between. Occasionally charging to 100% and leaving it for a few hours won't hurt. It's just that it's impossible to outline every theoretical scenario in between. If people want to charge to 100% so it will be ready for the morning, it probably wouldn't hurt either. But it's also fair to say that the amount of time it takes to add the final 5% isn't tiny, but adding the same number of miles to a low battery might take under a minute at a supercharger. So unless it would be impossible to get to the next supercharger on a trip unless you charge to 100% (been there, before the network was robust) you aren't going to save much if anything by ever charging past 95%.
Actually, the LFP batteries will degrade massively if you charge them as stated in this video. Tesla has made the decision to avoid angry customers complaining about the Guess 'o Meter being just that by prioritising range indications over battery life
@MovieViking Actually, charging LFP (Lithium-Iron-Phosphate) batteries as stated in the video is precisely the way THEY should be charged. The other type of EV lithium battery, NMC or "ternary batteries", should not be charged to 100% if you can help it... same for your cell phone battery. Charging to 80% should be the top-most charge. And if you DO charge to 100% ahead of a long road trip, you should time the charging so that you drive the car just after it finishes charging to 100%. NMC lithium batteries do not like to sit at 100%. LFP batteries do not have this issue. So Tesla's recommendations are spot on to be able to have the longest battery life from whatever type of battery you have.
@health101DOTorg No, you are wrong. Tesla only makes these recommendations for the reason I have already stated. They have even admitted it - which is understandable as the science is undisputed.
@health101DOTorg I also happen to own PV LFP batteries from the same manufacturer and their recommendations follow the science as the range issue is non-existent is that scenario.
Perfect reason to go with an LFP battery and not have to deal with all these charging and discharging recommendations. Musk himself has been pushing the technology.
Odd that they didn't go LFP with their own 4680 tech
Do you think adding the rear entertainment would void any type of warranty?
2018 LR RWD Model 3 Tesla tech verified I have 2% degradation at 52k miles. I always keep the car at 60% daily and only hit 100% for trips and only have it at 100% for less than an hour. It is difficult for newbies for sure especially if they don't know anything. Great videos as usual Ryan!!
Thanks for the info Ryan! My car actually recommended (after a few days of ownership) to charge to 100% once a week. I don’t have a charger at home or work, so use mostly the superchargers. Since it recommended 100% once a week, it sound like I may have an LFP battery. Is there a way to be certain? I took delivery of model 3 last month.
Yes it sounds like you have the LFP battery. I just ordered one. 👍🏻
Contstantly supercharging your battery will degrade it very fast. One person battery died after 140k because all they did was super charge it.
@Cherrelle G I understand, but some of us don’t have other charging alternatives such as home or work charging. The ability to charge once a week using the super chargers is the reason I chose Tesla over other EV brands.
Once again, thanks for your expertise Ryan. I've lowered my charging threshold from 85% to 80%. I want to take good care of Scarlett.
Depends on the year right? Those tweets are old, the new battery wants 100% at least once a week and a constant charge when not in use if you can.. idk if that was mentioned in the video, can't watch a 20 min vid lol
@Damien Earth that’s for the rwd only with the LFP pack
I have experienced #5 I got paint from Amazon and sanded the rim myself. It did the job and the paint matches very well
My question is how hard is it to stay off the curb? I've been driving since I was 16 and I'm 48 now and I've only every curbbed 1 set of wheels.
@Graffiti73 just depends on where you drive, imo. I drive Uber in the city and occasionally touch the curb cuz they're everywhere lol. I do it far less now compared to 4 years ago but it still occasionally happens.
Warranty voided! 😆😆😆(just kidding)
@Graffiti73 You probably don't have a spouse.
Thanks Ryan. Great video and advice! I charge to 90% but may now just go up to 80%.
Another note on LFP batteries: Range calculations require you to charge up to 100%. This is due to LFP batteries having a very flat voltage curve so the only way to reset the algorithm is at a known 100% state.
I know you recommend charging to 80% for non-LFP equipped Teslas, but you should’ve acknowledged that the Tesla manual states to keep the state of charge to
Great advice regarding the 3rd party mods. Does anyone know if changing the car's colour via a 3rd party will void any warranty? I hope to (eventually) get a Cybertruck, but I want it in matte black, and I don't expect that Tesla will offer that. As it'll be brand new, I was going to begin investigating which places already have experience in re-spraying Teslas. Has anyone here done this?
vinyl wrap it,cheaper quicker and reversible with a heat gun :)
Order in regular black and get a Stealth PPF wrap. Protects the paint, looks amazing and much more easy care than actual matte black paint.
I'm watching this as I improperly use autopilot. Thanks for the great content!
Super sage advise Ryan. Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom.
What’s the best option if I plan on leaving the Y in the garage for 2 weeks while out of town?
On my 3rd day of ownership and I went to visit my father and show off a little. He had zero issues getting into the car. I didn't even think to warn him of the manual release. The second we parked, he instinctively grabbed it and opened the door. I immediately reacted "Pop! You can't use that handle, it's for emergencies and can damage the--" and before I can complete that sentence and warn him not to close it like that, he slams the door shut lmao. Fortunately no damage but I think I had a mild panic attack
Lesson to learn: warn all passengers to never use that handle. I didn't even know it existed for the first 2 days and yet my Father discovered and pulled it within 10 minutes of being in the vehicle lololol
The ghost module only works with older model 3s that were equipped with the same motor as the performance. Tesla doesn't care about this mod anymore due to the hardware in New model 3s not being capable of the upgrade.
#11: Don't rent your Tesla out on Turo!!!
Please elaborate. It’s crazy that I seen this comment
true story…i rented a model S and scratched the rim 😱😫
@Tony p People don’t care about the car if it’s not there’s
@Diego Lara which is crazy to me because I drive cars that aren’t mine MUCH safer than I drive mine. Not that I’m a reckless driver to begin with but I get comfortable. When I’m in a rental, I drive like my grandmother LOL
I think tesla needs an automatic frunk on at least the model X. Every other door on the model x is automatic except for the frunk, which is more difficult to close than a front door or trunk.
Safety hazard… that’s why they don’t. I was told
@A O I don't see how it's any less safe than an automatic trunk. Care to elaborate?
@Zakary McLeod i was a little baffled myself but i think it was explained to me like the frunk opening while driving and malfunctioning or whatnot…..the hazard that could cause. Imagine your frunk pops up and won’t go down…. Lol
@A O I guess I can see how that sort of makes sense
Wheel covers need to be cheap, recyclable, easily replaced and sacrificial. Moulded plastic is extremely cheap to manufacture. Tesla should recognise this hassle and offer a cheap, concern free solution. It would make no difference to their bottom line. Not only should all EVs be home batteries on wheels, they should be able to help charge another EV and have ports for all sorts of tool battery charging and be able to support the grid. Ford has got the right attitude with this.
And have a charge while driving range extender port (coule be implemented though the invertor for 240v ac)
Excellent video! In CA DMV requires lights on when wipers are activated, most common when rain starts and wipers come on automatically. Unfortunately, they don’t and only when you go to Controls and Lights. Voice command is not available and no easy found button on screen. This is a big safety, and driving law issue. Do you agree and how to get Tesla attention for software upgrade?
One topic I hope you can cover, Why is Tesla forcing Full Self Driving onto all the used cars on their site. I ran a search for all vehicles for past 4 years (2019-2022) and not one does not have FSD included. It would not be bad if the prices were listed as regular prices and they are tossing in FSD but that does not appear to be the case.
They are just trying to make a bit more money. You can request to remove it if you buy one of their used inventory vehicles and save yourself $12,000. It’s purely a software thing so it’s easy for them to just remove it upon request
I saw that too. I wondered it they are not adding it, just stating that it is available in the vehicle for purchase as an upgrade???
it seems just about everything relates to the warranty. Yesterday I visited a Tesla showroom for the first time and the car salesman warned me about 3 or 4 times about Tesla not being responsible for this or that. And that was just while he was showing me the car configurator, not because of questions I asked him. I never had this experience before with other brands but I didn't pay attention to it until I now saw you mention it over and over again. Whenever a manufacturer is trying to wave away his responsibilities, it kind of puts doubt in my mind, it's as if they expect their product to fail. It's something to think about when making my decision.
Thanks for covering the opposite end of the ownership spectrum. I’m saving this one.
I have a 2021 MY. This may not be true for earlier models, but if you manually open the front doors, the window will lower just like pressing the button. I first discovered this when I had a passenger unfamiliar with Teslas used the manual release until I told him how to open it properly. I did later see where Tesla had updated cars to open the window when using the front manual release. Again, I am not sure how far it goes back for older models.
It always lowered a window, that is not root problem of this issue. Root problem is that when You press a button, Tesla will roll down window first and then open a latch. With manual release, you open a latch first and Tesla rolls down as "reaction" to latch being opened. It happens so quickly You might not notice it.
Wondering about your experience with Autodrive. I try to utilize it whenever we're out and about. Where should you put your hands? I usually hold the bottom of the wheel when in Autodrive. My problem is that sometimes the car will go for miles without making me giggle the wheel. Other times I swear I don't get 1/4 mile without needing to giggle the wheel. Haven't figured out why there's such a difference between drives.
Use 2 hands on wheel and guide the wheel lightly. It becomes automatic quickly
I gave my model 3 hire car wheel rash after 8 days of driving. Model 3 has a really wide turning circle 🔵 in opinion. Really annoying, wish the tire would hit not the rim. If leaving an electric car for over two months , any tips ?
I was considering unplugged performance, but this effects my opinion. Model Y Performance Ride quality is very hard, not comfortable at all.
Great advice thank you. I only charge my model Y over 80% for very long - Did not know about the hood - would press one hand on the center 😅😅
Nice review... how did you make out on trading your old Tesla? how well did the old ones hold their value?
Is it better to let the battery go to 20% or as charge up to 90% every day. In other words, is it better to let the battery go down or top up asap?
Hi Ryan, I just got a Tesla 3, thanks for the heads up, but you maybe don’t have answers for this but I’m planning to get interior ambient lights and a Instrument Cluster Heads Up for the car. My question is, do you think those customization will void the warranty?
I have a standard range 2021 Y. How do I know if I have the battery that should be charged to 100% like you mention in your first tip?
They should make it where charging details reflects the 30 to 80% range but to the driver would appear as 0 to 100% to protect the battery,
I don't really use autopilot because it's not assertive enough to drive where I live. I don't think it's competent enough to handle weavers, or make quick lane changes in case someone turns left at an intersection without a dedicated turn lane. But I also bought a camera cover for the interior camera because I'm not comfortable with being monitored.
So... we are going to get our new Model Y today at the Tesla dealership and I appreciate the concept to not charge the battery to beyond say 80/85% and not let the charge dip below say 10% however what about traveling on a long trip? My wife and I regularly drive from northwest Ohio to northwest Michigan along a very complicated route that historically we adjust on-the-fly depending on traffic and road construction conditions. Our current SUV has "LiveTraffic" updates that we continuously monitor whereby we adjust our route. The navigation system constantly fights us not understanding our human decision making process. I am concerned that if I enter a 450 mile final destination point with the Tesla navigation system and we then begin our trip with one intended route that then becomes modified based on real time route modifications, the added complexity of our car not understanding our route adjustments will place us at risk for a suboptimal charging schedule in conflict with the trip. By avoiding traffic around Ann Arbor we estimate we have saved upwards of over an hour in travel time. However, conventional trip navigation software routinely fails to recognize that driving a greater distance at a higher speed can often compensate for a shorter distance and/or more direct route that is very congested with slow moving (or at times not moving at all !) traffic. How intelligent is the Tesla navigation software to co-manage trip dynamics incorporating SOC statistics while also optimizing travel time? In addition, human error is always at play as well as encountering the unexpected. I recall one time we were traveling to Romulus, Michigan to fly out of DTW whereby a semi apparently burst into flames shutting down the interstate completely for 3 hours. Unexpected interruptions and delays on trips can then result in taxing air conditioning systems and/or heating systems depending on outside temperatures etc. How sophisticated is the Tesla software in assessing and re-assessing SOC and the need to charge the batteries?
I've started charging my M3LR to 60% only on daily basis. 50-60% is best for Lithium batts for long time storage. Trying this for the next year or so.
3:25 The recommendation to charge to 100%, if your car has LFP battery technology, seems to completely disregard the regenerative braking issue. LFP or not, overcharging is not good for the batteries so regen would have to be auto turned off just like in Tesla's using the older tech.
I was wondering the same thing. This official Tesla recommendation of charging to 100% for lfp batteries conflicts with the lack of efficiency gains due to regen. What to do then? Charge only once a week to 100% or maybe regen loss is only in the first few minutes of driving when it is really 100%?
Probably has some buffer over 100%, just as it has buffer under 0%
I would appreciate a video about shopping for and checking out a used Tesla, say, a Model 3 or Y. What are things to be aware of? For instance, does the manufacturer's warranty transfer (in general or for a specific car)? Does the software ownership transfer and will the car continue to receive updates, etc. Does the seller matter? - e.g., Tesla itself, Hertz, a used car lot, a private individual? What about sales and property taxes or insurance (Tesla or other)? How to reset the Tesla App?
A very useful video, and like others youve done, thanks and good job m8!
For those that don't have 18mins to waste... *Don't charge over 90% *Don't drain to zero *Don't close Frunk improperly *Be careful when turning you could easy scratch your rims. *Don't do 3rd party installs or mods. *Don't use manual door latch. The rest was meh.
As long as you don't have FSD Beta enabled you can use the counterweight without any issues by also blocking the camera.
If you block that camera so you can use the wheel weight, you are being quite stupid. To actively disable a safety feature so you don’t have to pay attention while driving is a sure fire recipe for a disaster!
I just drove my brand new M3LR from Melbourne to Brisbane and back, over 4000Km, car was fantastic and FSD takes all the work out of it so I was able to easily drive 8 hours each day. Sadly my wife gave me the worst case of curb rash ever, that will be expensive to fix.
Great advice. I’ll stick with my 5.8. Cheers 🍻
Thanks. I will now charge my tesla to 80% vs. the 90% I was doing with my two month old Model 3 LR. I really have not yet gone below about 50% anyhow.
The frunk getting damaged from slamming/putting pressure on the front lid tells me it's a bad design.
Porsche 911 same way for a long time.
Thanks for this post! I have a 2021 Y and I have been charging only to 80%. My 7th digit is E and i now can charge to 100% :)
I have the ghost module and I love it, definitely recommend
Paying attention to curb is underrated. Glad it made it here
Yep , all over the reddit lol
I curbed my wheel. I didn’t realize the Model 3 is kinda wide. The shame I felt was intense. I called a mobile wheel repair company and got it fixed that same day. Now I park curbside with great caution.
Anyone add ‘curb feelers’ to their Tesla?
Needs top down backup and parking view
Curbed mine too after 1 day, I am still unsure if I misread the camera directions or because it was still calibrating it did not show the car width properly. Either way, it looks awful 😞 what’s sure is that the curb was a lot higher than usual. Then curbed it at a car wash so the front one got damaged too!
T-cars seem kind of fun and cute in a way, but the ten-mile tailpipe just totally leaves me cold. But as soon as they solve that little problem, then you can count me in!
I charged to 100% a lot. Never had any battery issues. Just make sure you drive it immediately and don't let it sit.
The don’t charge to 100 percent thing is such a negligible effect on the battery. The worst damage would be done when fast charging to 100 all the time.
Wouldn't over acceloration also be bad for the battery? I've heard that this could cause damage.
you cant "over accelerate" a stock car. the throttle controls power output and it was designed by Tesla.
Any known issues with DIY PPF external wraps?
Ordered my Tesla this week and glad I already stumbled upon my new go-to Tesla channel on CS-tv. Cheers
How about this. Get rid of self presenting door handles and spend that money used on 4 motors on a single motor that will close the hood when you lower it.
So I don’t love the Tesla recommendation of charging LFP packs to 100%. I think it’s wise to do it once or twice a month for cell balancing but every time? There are three issues with this: 1 - weak regen at 100% and 2 - even LFP batteries will benefit from being charged to only 90%. 3. - If you’re using excess solar to charge the batteries then it costs more to add grid to continually charge to 100%. I’m not sure what buffer Tesla have at the top of the pack - it’s difficult to balance cells below about 95% because the charge/discharge curve is so flat, so I would assume no more than 5%. LFP packs should last longer than other lithium chemistries so Tesla aren’t really hurting the warranty by charging to 100%.
So if charging to 100% degrades the battery at a faster pace and suggest a 90-95% recharge why not move the cap down to that 95% and label its 100% to protect the battery with out the chance of the unknow consumer damaging their 60k+ vehicle unknowingly?
Because it allows for better EPA stats
Does a tow hitch count as 3rd party since it does not touch the performance?
So I just heard that Tesla has been offering discounts around $12.5K for X Plaid to people that ordered X LR and has been waiting long. Tesla has said by choosing Plaid, they can receive it much quicker. It just feels unfair to people that just bought Plaid at full price.
The tesla jailbreaking thing is so cool. Imagine the EV tunes that will come out over the next few years unlocking more performance on softlocked cars
With the frunk closure method, i would try the drop method. Simply let go of the frunk from about 3 inches above the latch. I doubt it would close, go to 4 inches. Find the height where it latches in properly when dropped. I would guess about 6 or 7 inches. Placing your mits all over the paint is terrible practice.
Hydraulics won't allow it to close, it always drops gently at any height.
@ziyaeen it has no hydraulics ffs
Ah my bad, I meant the gas struts.
10:05 Instead of the original wheel cover you can get a third party hub cap that covers and protects the outer ring of the rim cs-tv.org/tv/video-TD804AMr0ss.html
Great video! Loved the quick re-cap at the end.
Ryan question do you recommend charging model 3 using 110V or 220 nema 14-50 ?? Thanks for awesome videos!!!
I've been charging my m3 for over three years with the slow 220v 13amp charger, which I assume is similar to the US but perhaps slightly faster. At work we're sharing old poles so I set the limit to 8amp, which is truly slow but covers my daily usage. Not noticed any battery degradation, the key is just to keep the charge between 20% and 80% for daily use.
Glad you mentioned LFP batteries.
Thank you for your video, I have a M3 LR and usually charge my battery when falls below 40% but no more than 20% and charge up to 85% to 90%, my daily commute is 52 miles plus any errands I might do. Is that a good practice?