Battery Powered Steering and Five Radiators | 900hp Electric Escape Project
čas přidán 27. 03. 2023
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Komentáře: 1 032
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i should have gone to sleep a very long time ago but im here watching an aging wheels video the SECOND it comes out! thats a first! and soo worth it! oh and i shared it on discord to my brother who is also a fan of your channel robert so your wecome! cant wait to see your next upload! :D
dont forget you can find diesel hydraulic break booster and run power steering into it reduce many watt reduce too much motors
those plates ;)
Factor is NOT available to Canadians! What BS is this...
I will say it over and over, but the whimsy in your editing and presentation make watching your videos such a joy to watch. I love the silly bits you add in post as well as the intentional filming choices you make throughout.
Very strong "it's a hobby, things you do for fun should be fun" vibe. World needs more of that.
I never get tired of the zrrp-zrrp-zrrp-zrrp-zrrp edit of bolting and welding
I second this! Makes this content stand out between all the car fiddling channels out there! Enjoying the videos and always watching them fully - no ff-ing for aging wheels!
@Fox D agreed. the low-stress "because" reasoning behind everything on the channel gives it a very fun and light hearted vibe. no challenges or anything like that, just silly ass cars
Agreed. The editing and vibe is the only reason i watch this channel. I couldn't give a flying hoot about cars, but his joy is contagious. Love a person who loves a thing so much they can make you love it too
Check out the Amphenol UPC series connectors. The current rating is going to be continuous but the burst current should be MUCH higher. You can call them and talk to an application engineer to run your ideas past them. Great people and great connectors!
Amphenol UPC only goes up to 450 amps though, IMO a better option would be powersafe 800A connectors.
agree amphenol are one of the few companies that make these kind of stuff
UPC will likely be plenty. Especially when you start thinking about the conductor that is going to be used. The largest most people deal with is 4/0 cable and even that isn’t rated for continuous 2000amp. The burst will only come during acceleration for short periods. Overall 2/0 or even 3/0 and UPC series would be an amazing option.
TE Connectivity may have some better options, they are OEM in the same style connectors on electric buses.
Came here to recommend TE or Amphenol.
I really appreciate your “get to the point” video style. It always feels like project car videos take up a lot of time for a little bit of content. You tackled and completed two main components of this project, all in under 20 minutes. The project I most compare it to is the Electric Hummer project from JerryRigEverything. Every video of his on the Hummer has been drawn out to the point of feeling like nothing has gotten done. To be fair, he doesn’t have the same skills as you do, but that doesn’t mean he needed ten videos on hooking up and making battery boxes.
I appreciate the compliment, and I do try to trim the fat on my videos as much as possible, but I can definitely see the other side. I'm probably going to spend a month on these battery boxes. Getting only one video out of that, while pleasing to the viewer (and me from an artistic point of view), is perhaps not the best business move. After all, the video is the thing that makes money. It's also a bit disappointing to have days worth of work trimmed down to a couple minutes. That said, I'm just going to keep doing what I'm doing.
@Aging Wheels hell yeah, do what you do best! :)
@Aging Wheels The video is what makes the money, but the viewer needs to find value in the video for you to make the money. If their isn't enough content in the video, getting views will be hard. If their is too much content in the video, you are leaving money on the table. Then their is the question of "how technical are you going to be?" I think you have the right balance. Keep doing what you do and you will be making money off every video into the future. That is... If CS-tv doesn't screw things up... again.
As a follower of both channels, the reason why I follow you both is not for knowledge acquisition or training, it's for entertainment. Therefore the more videos you make, the more you entertain and I look forward to the next video every time! I definitely rather have 4 videos in a month with small updated than having one every month with a major milestone. As a business point of view, views bring the money to the workshop for the further purchase of parts. Fewer views means less money which means less content to watch. I love your videos, sense of humor and humility when working. Just keep doing what you do and I look forward to seeing your next release! 🤩
@Aging Wheels please do! I have always enjoyed the heck out of your editing. (Especially grinding the rivets on the roof of the bus, mounting light fixtures and any time you cut many pieces of something)
I love how almost jank this is. It really is engineering, but with a hint of "Hold my beer".
I love this description
@Aging Wheels so... The e-scape is called the (almost) jank tank now?
@Aging Wheels Can we say "new merch idea" with this?
sad that in most of EU this probably would be illegal as hell to take anywhere on the road :/ so these projects are much more common in the US than here in the EU where i live
@BadMax02 In most of EU you can get it tested and made legal for a price.
Milspec aviation connectors might be your ticket for the battery. MS3509 (750A sustained/1500A peak) is the highest I could find, definitely fine as a pair.
In case nobody's told you today that you rock.... You rock!
thank you! ^w^
I’m a join the chorus: “You Rock!”
Thank you, paul
🤘
You rolled with that.
Man, this vehicle looks a million bucks. What a whimsical project. Your videos are always a highlight!
You say it looks like a million bucks, I say it looks like misappropriated funds
@Aging Wheels A million misappropriated bucks?
@Aging Wheels your words, not mine🥹
@Aging Wheels misappropriated funds would have been if you tried to rebuild all of the codas This is an EV conversion
I was curious, do you plan on upgrading your blinker system to all electric, so you don't have to constantly worry about maintaining your blinker fluid levels? Been loving this series.
Are there any charger networks in the US that supply orange electricity, though?
@Poking Technology I’m pretty sure it only comes in “Green” and “Dinosaur” currently.
@Eric B it also comes in "Blue Green" and "Glowing Blue"
@Philip Dorr that glowing blue is the shit, fr fr
@AbyssEyes _May contain trace amounts of nuclear radiation_
I have 2 concerns about your quad heater core setup. The first being the numerous airlocks that they're going to cause, and the second being that the airflow through them won't be great. The fans are going to suck much more air through the exposed parts of the radiator, and probably very little through the cores. Hopefully the whole setup is overkill enough that it won't be a big deal, but I really think you're better off with just a second normal radiator. If you want to salvage the heater core idea, then they'd work a lot better spaced like an inch or so away from the rad, with a shroud to make sure all the air is going through the cores first, then the rad. You could use your fancy-pants plasma CNC and sheet metal brake to fabricate this shroud pretty easily.
Or shifted to one side, so that the fans can be split operation. Maybe put ac on the other. Vacuum bleeding the system will help, but pockets will develop naturally as parts hit boiling point. So you’re right in that the ends should be pointed up to allow it to clear on its own. My design was much more lazy. Exhausted everything to the cabin, and let the automatic climate control sort it out. Overkill for the motors/inverter, but the battery and I were happy.
@Aaron Bullock the coolant will never hit boiling point though, 180°F is 80°C which is well below boiling.
well you see the advantage he has is the car needs far less cooling than a combustion engine he only needs to cool a couple hundred degrees and not the near 1000 that a regular engine would produce so partially restricted air flow won't hurt much.
@Jonthefuzz Radiators rely heavily on temperature difference to work efficiently though. It's much easier to cool something with ambient air that's around 200f, because you have over 100 degrees of difference. With batteries though, you only have tens of degrees difference to play with.
The airlocks are something I hadn't considered, but vacuum bleeding will help that. Something that helps me out immensely is that this cooling setup is pretty massively oversized, so I should be good. If I find out this doesn't work, easy swap and knowledge gained!
There's something funny about turning on an ignition in a car that doesn't have an engine (or drive motors).
My work car, a Citroën ë-C4, is electric from the factory and has an ignition barrel!
Did that with my project car. No engine, trans or driveshaft but went with an all new wiring harness so we had to make sure things worked.
I'd imagine the "check engine" light would be on.. ;)
@Ethan Matzdorf bet it isn’t seeing as the ECU is gone lol
I’ve done the same thing to turn on my radio, to test my new speakers on my 2008 Civic while I was waiting on my rebuilt engine. It was rather funny. I was surprised it didn’t throw any codes for open circuits (all of the engine wiring was disconnected).
Threaded rod has a tendancy to chew through the radiator tubes that's why there are specific plastic radiator fixings for oil coolers and things. you should be able to source a pwm controller or variable speed dc motor controller that will work fine to control the speed of those fans. Awesome build so far!
Agreed.
They make easy connectors for putting a fan on a radiator for hotrods and such, I have on my t bucket. 10/10 recommend, it’s like a zip tie with a flat washer head
Yeah kinda funny how worried he was about metal-metal contact on the face and then just jammed a bunch of threaded rods through the fins.
@kaelwddissimilar metals at that!
Gotta say I was a bit sad to hear that this will never be taken to a track, I would love to see a quarter mile rip when it's "finished". Either way, I still love it, it's gonna be such a sleeper.
I'm pretty sure he's said he's being sponsored to get it ready for the drag strip - he's just not planning to take it to a "track day".
@Khrrck oh that's cool if true
Always a good day when Robert posts a new video!! Best channel on CS-tv!!
Right. Quite educational.
there's been a lot of work done to reverse engineer the CANBus protocol that pump uses. it might be worth pulling those wires into the interior so you can do fun things in the future like reduce assistance at speed, or completely turn the pump off when you're going fast enough.
This is the right answer. Solve it in software.
You have a staggering array of skills, but I think your editing is very near the top. Everything you do is a joy to watch.
I love how much work you did to DIY a radiator zip tie/fan mount.
I thought the same thing.
yeah especially when a solution for this already exists
rapid prototyping with a cnc laser, glorious. what a fun project to watch.
You can make the fans run two speeds if you use a few relais to switch them in series for low speed( each fan basicly gets 6 volts)and paralel for hi speed. Did this on my Citroën cx and it works great.
The best I know from dealing with electric lift equipment is Anderson connectors, for your case specifically power pole 180s, they can take 350 amps at 600v BUT they are stackable, for your case you can do a 4 by 3(or a 2x6, or 2 2x3s etc) configuration for 12 connectors(6 for each pole) matted together as a single unit for 600v at 2100 amps(or two, but if you make multiple connections, it might be a good idea to only stack the positives or neutrals in a unit, so in case of disconnect you don't draw all the current from only half the connectors), there are likely better solutions, but in battery operated forklifts and lift equipment Anderson is the standard, and it's made to be unplugged every day since the batteries are charged directly from the connector, I've never used equipment with such a big connector so the matting forces might not be plesnt to plug and unplug though(note pp180 is originally rated 180 amps hence the name, but they have been retested with larger wire, and ul certified with 350 being the current , current rating I believe with 3/0 wire, but they get derated for ambient, at 50c they are limited to 310 amp I believe or there about)
Powerpoles are great, but they're not weather sealed and are only IP20 (finger safe) rated when they're connected. I would worry about handling a block of them attached to a battery un-mated, especially in dirty shop conditions. They do have some weather sealed variants available that might work, but they're more custom.
@Kyle Lundberg yeah agreed for weather sealing(rewatching, that alone means I didn't recommend what he asked for so its null and void since this isn't what he wants), I wouldn't worry about handling them though unless it's actively raining while unhooking it, kinda the point of them to be able to handle them, as far as weather resistance 90% of that can be fixed with a healthy amount of dielectric grease, still probably wouldn't trust it for sprays or direct water submersion, but by itself would probably be enough to stop any corrosion issues, regardless in a automotive situation you would probably stick the block into a box
*LEARNING TIG* is very much like learning gas welding [IMO] and when I was taught to gas weld [at pannel beating college] was to first just learn to join two bits of metal together by melting the two parts into each other - learn to control the "pool" - then when you get that sorted learn to dab in extra bits of metal to the pool with the rod
My new favourite channel! I'm all for EV conversions and I love how this one is coming together. Thanks for sharing the process and your learning experiences!
Tpu actually holds up fine in an engine bay. Ive had 3d printed radiator bushings and motor moubt inserts working for over a year with no failures.
This is one of my favorite projects you’ve done thus far. Also as usual, your sponsor spots are always hilarious.. hope that jalapeño didn’t greet you on its way out haha. I LOVE spicy food, so that’s a huge plus for factor haha.
Does anyone else have a feeling that radiator setup is going to be reworked before all is said and done? I really can't wait for this project to be finished, it's so cool.
This is the most janky ev build I’ve ever watched, but I absolutely love it! Some of your techniques are a little unorthodox, but you’re killing it! Awesome job, I look forward to more of these videos!
Wow, Robert has balls of steel to even attempt this. This build is absolutely unbelievable.
Great video as always, glad to see the e-scape coming along! Just as a tip when cutting templates to check sizing I like to put cardboard in my laser, it makes dimension checking a lot cheaper than wood pieces!
I love this project! I dream of doing an ev conversion but getting the parts or a destroyed car is extremely pricey... So I'll just have to sit back and enjoy your project. 🙂
For the radiator fans shown at 17:10 - if all you need is to be able to adjust the speed of those DC motors, you could just run them with a motor controller capable of PWM. (essentially switching power to the motors on and off really fast to control how fast they run)
this is going to be sooooo good, i hope the frame twists honestly just to prove the amount of potential power with evs, now pair that with a combination motor and you have a BEAST
I appreciate the collection of rock-auto stickers, still the most affordable means of getting parts for my old truck.
If you need a great price on the wrong parts and no way to actually speak to anyone about it you can't beat rockauto!
This is good stuff. I am living vicariously through you and your projects. Thank you for your great content.
Well, I can say that I am just as happy to watch you build this as I was watching Binky being built!
I've been following you for about a year since CS-tv recommended your Koda video to me. Love your channel and film style, but this EV build has been one of my favorites to watch on YT in recent memory. I picked up a Fiat 500e in 2019 and ever since then I've been interested in conversions. Bosch put a vacuum pump in it for the hydraulic brakes when they did the conversion for Fiat. It's the one noise it makes that catches people off guard when standing near the car. Keep up the awesome content!
Love what you are doing Rob! Your engineering skill is shining! My friend has just employed the exact same motor for his Civic project lol.
I LOVE your energy! You are quickly becoming one of my Favorite CS-tvrs.
It's difficult to find a connector that supports such high amps, I recommend you to use a big contactor and standard bolt connections, if you are worried for the waterproof factor, you can make water shields underneath the engine bay and use dielectric grease in the connections.
I am really enjoying this series (Although that is a silly thing to say as I always enjoy your videos) Keep up the great work!
Really enjoy the videos. I have two suggestions for you on TIG welding and your power steering pump. I hope they help. #1 The trick to TIG welding is puddle control and moving the puddle in circler motion. Add wire to make your puddle bigger, but be careful not to round over your tungsten tip. Keep that to a SHARP point at all times. Grab the handle like a pencil (Not like a MIG handle) with the hose draped over your shoulder and running down your arm. You'll have better control by relieving the weight of the hose over your arm. Practice on two pieces of metal making an outside corner weld. That’s easier to understand the puddle control. Then, the inside corner weld you were attempting will be easier. #2 Electric power steering. Repurpose your cruise control button on your steering wheel to control the power to the pump. If you're driving around town, keep it on. If you’re driving 47 miles on a straight road, turn it off. First thought was a button like a NASCAR press to talk or kill switch, but I doubt you'll be using cruise control on your rig, so use that. Can't wait to see the next video. Good Luck!
imagine just being on the road in a super sporty lamborghini and having less horsepower than an electric converted early 2000s ford hatchback with a massive dent in it. i love this vehicle
I just imagine like a group of people who own expensive cars all in a call and then one of their buddies is late and they explain the experience of how they somehow got horribly by a Ford escape of all things
*I’ve been watching you for quite some time, love how your fabricating skills come along, love your videos ❤️*
Your channel actually got me into cars before I got my first own car, so I'm very happy to see you doing better! Only wishing you the best, king.
I'm so excited to see another Aging wheels video, especially those on building a DIY 900HP Escape EV. 😁
Your videos are a joy to watch! You are as handy as a pocket on a shirt! Can't wait till the next chapter. Be careful with those batteries! Cheers!
You may want to look into a full sized mennekes disconnect plug. They’re more for AC high amperage situations, but the idea behind them is that you have to essentially trip a disconnect switch before you can unplug it, to prevent a 1000A arc from turning everything within a few feet into plasma. Not sure they make exactly what you’re looking for, but you could also do a few lower rated plugs in parallel if it’s cheaper
For the brake booster, you could just find a used hydraulic brake booster powered by your power steering pump you just installed, just like alot of GM vehicles.
For efficiency, you might look at cutting out the power steering above a given speed. Or, as originally intended, there are probably some CAN messages to turn it up/down with speed. Whether anyone in the aftermarket has bothered to reverse engineer those messages yet, though, is another matter.
I would think something like a pair of half width radiators side by side would be easiest to deal with. Dunno if they're still around, but 90s civic all aluminum "race" radiators off ebay were great for this sort of thing, compact, nice thick core, all welded construction, easy to alter, good for several hundred hp in a light combustion powered car and dirt cheap.
Loving this project, keep it up :)
Superb. Great episode! I was pretty happy for you when the power steering test was performed. At the motorsports place where I work we call the 12v lead energized by the ignition switch a "key power" lead. For us it's easy as the key power lead is already in the loom. We tap it to run winches, additional lights, etc.. Peace. Nice to see the progress!
I'm really loving this series so far. That pulling solution was very clever
I've been really enjoying watching you figure out how to build the E-scape. Your building style resonates with me.
As a kid, I always wanted to take an old car and put batteries in it. I live this series.
For the battery box connectors, maybe look into what freightliner is using on their elecric semis
I did electrohydraulic power steering in a CRX and measured current draw. I don't remember the exact numbers, but the pump idling was about the same as one headlight, while it topped out at full lock, that is full pump speed and full pressure at surprisingly low 30 or 40 A at 12V.
The heater cores are designed to be fan forced, where something like a transmission cooler is designed to be able to be cooled like the radiator with airflow from the moving vehicle. Also because of the reduced airflow where the heater cores are strapped to the radiator, they might both work more poorly.
I get so excited when I see updates on this project in my feed! Keep going I love it
I've been working on replacing the exhaust manifold on my wife's Escape. I need to take a break so I decided to watch your video. Of course, you're working on the Escape! That vertical support that you mentioned has been driving me absolutely crazy. For some reason it is welded to the rest of the body so I can't remove it. It is also in a position that turns an easy job into a nightmare.
I absolutely love this project! As far as the high voltage plug you might have to use an AC knife switch to handle that kind of amperage then unbolt the legs individually. Possibly milling custom connectors out of copper.
If you are trying to avoid metal to metal contact with your heater core/radiator assembly, do you also want to put some kind of rubber coating on your bolt so they don't rub the inside of the metal fins?
Really enjoying your EV conversion project and very jealous that I don't have the time and resources to pursue my own. Regarding your interconnect question I think you just need to work your problem backwards. Start by looking at what kind of wire or combination of wire you need to run your 2000amps between components and from there you should be able to find connectors that can accommodate your wiring harness and as a result you should have your interconnect that can accommodate 2000 amps. If you want my opinion about your 2000 amp requirement; I'm not sure if its needed thinking about when I charge my EV. My Kona EV draws about 100amps while charging at a DC fast charger and a Porsche Taycan consumes 400-500amps (I'm running the numbers from memory, so please double check) while charging and I believe to accommodate that amount of current the cable between the charger and car is liquid cooled to prevent the cable from becoming to hot. Anyways my point is I think maybe you can get away with maybe using two connectors of the coda style and I don't think you need to worry about the 2000 amp draw, sure you may hit 2000amps, but I don't think you'll draw 2000amps consistently enough and/or long enough to warrant anything much beefier then two of those coda connectors (perhaps even one).
I like how I closed my eyes every time you began to weld because I'm currently learning how to weld in my collision repair shop and eye safety is fresh in my mind
Long time fan. You're crazy and yet awesome. Also, somehow efficient, mostly. Love your content, keep it up. 😊❤
Keep up the great work! Looking forward to seeing this completed!!!
I suppose for High voltage/current power connectors you could look at the ones they use for powering electric trains in depots, we have 750V DC 3rd rail down here so some way of temporarily powering a train is kinda necessary so engineers don't have to worry about being close to 750V DC when doing work that requires the train to be powered.
Thanks for another great video. I also like the way you do those ads, they seem really genuine. If Factor would deliver in my country I would have ordered some, you can be sure of that. Also, would the boots/trunks of the codonors have these gas suspension thingies and could they be used on the window of the boot hatch of the ford escape?
I love how overcomplicated you made your cooling system. For reference next time, that radiator has a built in automatic transmission cooler. Its a heat exchanger that is in the water tank of the radiator. You could have just plumbed the second loop into that.
That only works if the two fluids are at similar temperatures. Otherwise your low temperature fluid will become a heat sink for your high temperature fluid.
@Church of Optimization in the case of this EV your battery temperatures and controller temperatures and such are all the same relatively low temperature. Which actually means it's going to be very inefficient because you want the larger temperature difference between the ambient air and the coolant. That said, the capacity of this cooler is so much larger than what he needs that it doesn't matter and you will be near ambient temperature on the output anyway.
Great video. You are one of the few who are able to keep it interesting. And your talent is just fun to watch.
I wonder if you would consider a speed sensitive off switch for the power steering pump as it’s unlikely to be required above 40mph or so
Hey! So the SW20 MR2 has electro-hydraulic PS from the factory. It only runs at low speeds, once you hit a certain speed the pump turns off. May be worth looking into this for highway driving or something.
man I miss my s40 turbo. First car I ever used at a track day, and if I can find a 6spd AWD variant you bet your bottom dollar I'll own another one. Great cars. Simply brilliant. Also, AWESOME content. Great to see you happy, Robert!
I can't believe I missed the first episode so have duly caught up. This is an awesome build and really looking forward to the next episode of massive over engineering (based on the pump bracket 😆). I'm not sure you'll ever get connectors that can handle 2000A without going industrial. Have you calculated the gauge wire required tor 2000A? I'm not sure you'll be able to bend it or crimp on ends. I believe when you go to those levels of power weird stuff happens so you might want to run your ideas past an expert. Which I am not. But good luck anyway. 😀
Anderson connectors go up to 2000A, they are found on electric forklifts and the like, kind of an industry standard by now. they are not IP rated though. 2nd point: heater cores usually have a way higher fin density than front mounted radiators. this causes way more air resistance, and given that right next to them is a path with way less air resistance, and there being barely any pressure, these will barely flow any air, and as such, will cool very little. They are also not made for the the same flow in coolant, which might be fine. I fell for the same cheapness trap for another project, getting air through these requires a significant pressure. Good call on the PP rings though, the bare aluminium of the radiators very much does not like stainless steel, and will make cauliflowers very quickly in salty wet conditions.
I wondered about the fin density. I think it'll be fine considering the cooling system is pretty dramatically oversized for my needs. It's not a hard swap if I'm wrong!
yes! great to see the progress, such a great series!
I have an idea for your cooler fan problem if you want to try to keep them. I remember for some old Corolla I was diagnosing some fan problem. And it hand a pretty neat circuit to achieve a high and low speed with on off fans like that. Basically for low it would close a relay that would create a series circuit with the fans so voltage would have to drop across both and they would run slow. For high speed it would close a relay for both fans to run them individually at there full speed
I would love to consider something like factor as an alternative to takeout (for easier meals when we don't feel like cooking), if only it had less plastic in the packaging than our local takeout does
10:41 could you install some kind of killswitch for the pump you could hit at speed? Could that help the longevity? Also at 16:59, wouldn't you want to sleeve the threads before putting them through?
Regarding connectors, I'd suggest powersafe 800 amp connectors. That would mean two separate connectors, one for positive and one for ground, but frankly even wrestling one conductor at a time at that size is already enough of a struggle -- being able to plug in the poles one at a time is a virtue at that scale, not a vice.
You could also do a hydro boost off of your electro hydraulic power steering.
This project is so sick! I can’t wait for it to be done!!!
Your plethora of equipment is amazing!
Love to see a project coming along this fast
For the fans, use a set of relays to switch the two fans from series to parallel for speed control. I've seen a lot of GM vehicles that do that and it seems to work well, but if one fan goes out you loose low speed cooling. Still, not that big of a deal.
If you don't isolate your bolts trough the vanes with some sort of sleeve, you still will have potential differences risking some galvanic corrosion. even with the synthetic washers. In stainless pressure installation we use nylon sleeves around the studbolts of the connecting flanges if 2 parts need to be provided with galvanic isolation
In our shop we just used big zip ties to mount external coolers. Completely janky but worked great.
Hey, Robert, will you be talking about the legal side of EV conversion? I know that hugely depends on the country and state but I’d still love to hear your story out. (Mostly because I like listening to you.)
Oh, and +1 for using legacy parts for steering and brakes. If the assistance fails, you just get to steer/brake harder, but if the brainbox in the electric power steering or brake booster goes on the fritz, you might be fighting unexpected steering/brake inputs. Imagine, 55mph, steering suddenly goes hard left, or the brakes lock on.
First off, I love the videos. Keep them coming, also I'm surprised you didn't just get an electric rack and pinion from an Escape Hybrid. Just a thought😊
i think you should align the radiators so the holes are not blocked to the point where both radiators meet, unless the temperatures are not so high
I've seen Amphenol PowerLok 300 series handle 2200+ amps for less 10 seconds at a time when doubled up (1100 amps per contact)! They held up well. The nice thing about these connectors is that they have a termination for the shielding, unlike many DIY HV connectors. Mouser has them in stock and has great prices.
You should look into backing your nylon radiator washers with radiator spacing foam. Plastics can and will wear holes in your radiator passages if they're subject to vibrations.
I’m no expert welder but the one thing I do know about Tig is that it must be clean. Clean the mill scale then clean everything with acetone and I do mean everything from your filler rod to your metal. Dedicate something to only grinding your tungsten wether its a grinding disc, diamond wheel, grinding stone does not matter just dedicate it only to your tungsten grinding to avoid contamination. Lastly make sure you have pre gas on and post gas on to avoid the weld turning to crap. These few tips have greatly improved my tig welding like I said I am no expert but these definitely helped.
For someone who is not a profesional, you are really good at fabricating with metal in my opinion.
Look into power connectors for electric forklifts. Also they sell radiator fan mounting kits so you don't have to push metal rods through your fragile aluminum radiator fins.
Since you already have the hydraulic pump, have you thought of using a hydro-booster for the brakes?
Back in the most horrible time in my life, when I was in high school, I had an old Chevy station wagon that originally had a 350 diesel in it. When I got it, someone had put a gas engine in it, but the car still had the hydraulic power brakes. That would have made an EV conversion pretty easy, but I can't imagine why anyone would do an EV conversion on a 1985 Caprice wagon. EDIT: Connectors - you might see if you can get a battery connector for an electric forklift. The really big ones do 2,000 amps or more.
14:38 that enthusiasm about a damaged product is why I love this channel.
Hey man, good to see you again. Your videos just don't ever seem to be long enough. Take it easy.
for any possible future radiator/heat exchanger mods .. they make plastic mounting options for power steering coolers (most all auto parts stores and tractor supplies)
Electric industrial forklifts use Anderson Powerpole connectors. They have a high current rating, but I'm not sure of the voltage. You might find they have a product that will work for you. Enjoyed the video - as I always do!