Everything wrong with the Cheapest E Type Jaguar S1 roadster, with the WORST OIL LEAK EVER!

čas přidán 27. 09. 2022
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  • That's not an oil leak. That's a self lubricating anti-corrosion system used in many Jaguars.

  • After years of watching this channel I'll never get over the fact that Hoovie has spent millions of dollars on cars and can't buy a $100 wireless lapel mike so we can hear wtf the wizard is saying.

  • I bought a series 3 V12 Etype four years ago for $9000. In pretty good shape I thought I could just put $10-$20,000 in it and just drive it around. I put $120,000 in it and now it’s the nicest $70,000 Etype in town. Or it would be if it weren’t leaking oil all over my garage. 😂

  • Hi Tyler commented on the last video. You can get an upgraded seal now days as opposed to the rope one. When we’ve done rear mains on e types or clutches it’s easier to take the whole engine out with the gearbox attached but you can do that in a few hours it’s relatively straightforward, put the car on a 4 post ramp, few ancillaries off that will clash the frames, centre console out, undo the prop, undo engine mounts and lift the car off the engine and box, means you can leave the bonnet on too. The hardest part is the reaction plate which is that thick bar across. The easiest way to do that is crack the upper wishbones off, take the track rods off and rock the lower arm up and down to realise the bolts that are under tension from the torsion bars. Then you take the gearbox off the engine once you’re out, probably do the clutch while it’s out so it’s done. You might get away with just doing the half of the rms in the sump so fingers crossed! It’ll be a doddle for wizard either way. Also the wood on the picture frame is more common than you’d think 😂

  • I worked for a year or so at an upholstery shop, and we did some work on an E-type, which had been rebuilt completely. The shop owner kept the car at his house about 2 miles away. I got to drive it there late one night on Venice Bl in LA., a wide street with no traffic, and I did what any young man would do and dropped the hammer.... the car was absolutely perfect! I won't ever forget the way it pulled.

  • You can get a normal oil seal conversion kit for a few hundred quid, takes some fitting, but once its done, its done. Of course, without that oil leak, there`ll be no chassis rust prevention, so I`d recommend drilling a 0.3mm hole at the back of the sump, one on either side.. 😁

  • Asking if an old Jag is leaking is like asking if England has a monarch. Yeah, dude. That's what they do.

  • I can see it now, Tyler pulls into the full service gas station and tells the attendant, "Fill it up with oil, and check the gas!"

  • A neighbor of mine looked at one of these when they were new. He noticed an oil spot under the car in the showroom right around the rear main seal. The salesman told him "They all do that, sir". Needless to say, he didn't buy it.

  • That piece of wood is to put the floor jack under without crushing the core support like so many people did. Other wise you can't lift both wheels at the same time. Edit I typed before you figured it out. The rear main seal is rope, if the car was sitting for a long time without being driven it's gone. There's a conversion kit for a lip seal but it's quite an undertaking to adapt it. There are some "custom" made panels on the side of the engine.

  • I've actually replaced those old rope seals (not on a Jag). You're making me feel really old. The styling on E types is absolutely timeless, beautiful cars!

  • Suggestion: have the Wizard take a good look at the differential pinion and output shaft seals while he is working on your E-type. I had this same IRS rear end with inboard brakes on an early 70's Jag XJ sedan. The output shaft seals were leaking diff fluid all over the brakes making them squeal when applied. British oil seals of that period did not last very long before leaking. Hopefully, yours have been replaced at least once already.

  • There's this upgrade kit for the rear main seal, that uses a modern style seal rather than the original rope one, and it's like 400 USD, but "Please note that the crankshaft must be machined at the sealing area before installation and this must be carried out by a qualified machine shop. "

  • Most people flip out when they see oil spots on their concrete… Car Wizards reaction was perfect! Car Wizard: Wow, This kitty marks it’s spot ! 😂

  • If you are going to pull it apart, convert the rear seal from a rope seal. Check "Rear Crank Seal Conversion ". Done a lot with old cars of different types and especially the Jaguar 6 cylinder engine.

  • You need to keep us updated more often Hoovie. I demand to live vicariously!

  • Sneaky Pete, love it! Haven't heard a mechanic use one or the term in ages. A lot of the younger mechanics never even heard of them. When I explain it I tell people they are like they work old Chinese Finger Traps and they still have no clue. I have changed so many rear seals using them. Very old school tool and a life saver and time.

  • Love to see that car totally disassembled, all corrosion repaired, rear main seal replacement with the modern type seal and a new leather interior and top replacement with new seals and a proper respray. The XK-E is one of the most beautiful cars ever built, a true work of art.

  • Apparently it was restored to factory original condition.

  • If you want to do the oil seal properly, you have to pull the engine, that means bonnet off, seats out, centre console out....like someone mentioned before its better to leave the engine on a rolling pallet and lift the whole car up, you have to remove the carbs and inlet manifold when you do it that way, but its still better than mentioned in the workshop manual....