The ONE MILLION Mile Tesla | It Still Runs

čas přidán 31. 03. 2023
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Diving deep on how long Tesla batteries and vehicles truly last. 100,000, 400,000 or even 1 million miles!

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How Long Does a Tesla last
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How long does an EV battery last


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    • @Jon Mitchell Good question, I'd like to see how they do with chain on.

    • I want to know about teslas in michigan and rust belt states. How long they last though winters etc.

    • Don't overlook that at those mileages a gas car would have to have it's engine and transmission rebuilt, which could easily cost more than $10,000 when you consider the performance levels found in Teslas.

    • I rented a brand new Model 3 from Hertz And the battery was defective after 15k miles. After i got my car I had 2 Uber passengers say the same thing. Im hearing nightmare stories. Mine was awful. I will never get one anytime soon.

    • @Troy Rubert ok u

  • This all syncs with my experience. I've had access to and been using a 2018 Model 3 (Dual Motor) consistently for the past two years. Maintenance has been minimal. A 12v battery was replaced under warranty (that one is more important than you'd think). But brakes, tires, etc. all held up remarkably well. Compared to my BMW 325i, this car has been extremely low maintenance.

    • @Silimarina The cost for a new timing chain is also quite substantial. BMWs are known for for their failures on the N47, M57 etc.

    • @AllGoodThingsNetwork the only time when bmw's are fun is when you put an LS1 or 2jz engine in it.

    • you know what they say about bmw right? drive a mile put $0.25 cents away for every mile you drive because you are going to need that stash of money when not if but when the car breaks down. All bmw's are trash when it comes to reliability. The funny part is their engines and transmissions are nice it's just all the added electrical and not to mention all the components in the engine are made of out plastic. Plastic doesn't last long. Also the can electrical system is the dumbest thing i ever seen for a car to be wired that way.

    • I currently have a 2018 BMW 230i and thinking of trading it in for a Tesla 3 and just calling it a day. The low maintenance and gas savings is really enticing and I plan to keep the car for 10 years

    • @Rev Dat Cat Here in Sweden, we can also have diesel BMWs, I think the most powerful is at 340 horses, like an Alpine or 540d xDrive Touring

  • Cars can last a REALLY LONG time if you properly do maintenance which very few people do.

    • @Skarn22 yup lol. “My Toyota is still running strong at 500k miles. All I’ve done is two transmission rebuilds, a gasket and regular maintenance”😂

    • The problem is there's a lot of stubborn people who just replace the engine and drivetrain and then brag that their car lasts 30 years 500k miles and an EV will never manage that.

    • There is hardly any maintainance to do on a tesla. Its practically just a battery and 1-2 engines.

    • @TheRealHooptie no it’s not lol. It’s a major repair. Never had to do a head gasket on my Toyotas or Lexus lol. Yall sound like subaru owners 😂

    • @M VC again, head gasket is maintenance.

  • We've had our model S since early 2013 and had 220,000 miles on it. About 13% battery degradation

    • @King Robinhood highly doubt you have a button less phone

    • @webguy943 yeah right, put it on a dyno and let me know if it gets the factory rated hp....

    • @webguy943 So you mean that your car is not consuming more fuel per mile than your car was new. And if you have never cleaned your valves, your car probably also has less horse power than when it was new. But there are chemicals at all to buy to clean the valves

    • @HighlighterJelly that's their opinion, I recommend you checking them out for yourself

    • @G. M one Toyota and two Hondas. Although I sold them before they wore out

  • I've met tons of Model S owners with +350k miles on them with no issues! 🙃😃😄So twice the life of most cars and still running strong!!

    • @Silimarina because they’re the newest mass production car company in the last 100 years to make anything worthwhile and are bound to have quality control issues. At the end of the day, the maintenance is infinitely less than ICE cars.

    • Never met anybody with more than 150k miles on one. Where do you live?

    • Most cars run to 300k so until you get 600k that's not double.

    • @ShoKING then why is Tesla in last place for reliability in all surveys?🤣

    • in "tons" of model S you mean 2-3?🤣 I've watched Bjorn's videos and his original Model S had a lot of issues, just like his Model X. And you know that there are a lot of ICE cars that have +300k miles and are still on the road going strong.

  • My Toyota is from 2005 and I get notes on my car to buy it all the time. As inflation, mortgage and lease rates continues to rise, it will be interesting to see how society reacts to planned obsolescence and the idea that companies keep pushing us out from ownership altogether. I want to see model 3's at the 20 year mark and their market value

    • @MasonSTL I'm sure you're right, but I can't help but be all doom and gloom and just know any such company will eventually become just another monolith. It's happened again and again in Tech, and EVs are as much tech as vehicle.

    • Moving the goal post?

    • What model Toyota?

    • Its really only a matter of time before planned obsolescence hits EVs. Though I have a feeling there will be breakout car companies that will make far more simplistic EVs which would make it easier to circumvent any of that.

  • My father in laws roadster went from 175 range (new) down to 166 after 14 years and that’s with all the old tech.

  • I drove my 1992 Civic for 21 years. After spending $1,400 on a used engine, transmission, radiator, hoses, etc. (that's $1400 total for all that plus other stuff I didn't list), I drove it another 10 years before it ever broke down for any reason. I parked it because of rust at 585,000 miles. It still ran like a champ and I still own it. The last repairs cost me some thing like $4 for a switch and $12 for a brake cable. My current car is a '97 civic with low miles, and it should last me a long time. That's the thing about these electric cars. I'm all for them, but with an older gas car you can fix just about anything for less than $100 if you have tools. Electric cars will need less work, cost less to fuel, but those enormous repair bills are murder. I get that the average person can't fix their own car, but that's only because they don't try.

    • @Glenn Cornwall I have, iv'e owned 6 Model S's and for what you pay for the car, repairs and charging it's much cheaper to own a Camry Hybrid. I should Know my wife drives one!

    • @Randy Green I won’t ridicule you but only state a fact do your homework.

    • @Twilit Rascal From everything that I have read listen to and watched about Tesla cars and in general electric cars the car batteries are staying alive well and I do repeat well after 500,000 miles. and it’s only a fluke with a battery dying sooner than that in such a short period of time.

    • You are 100% correct, way way cheaper to own a gas car!

    • So in a "this = that" kind of explanation: It seems like what you pay for in repairs for a gas vehicle, is what you're saving up to eventually replace in an EV. i.e. Replacing Every thing in a gas vehicle that needs replacing to be "100 percent" again, over four years = Replacing a few things in an EV to be safe to drive again, In or Within four years. Battery replacement will vary.

  • I have 303,061 miles miles on my model X 100D. The car is incredible, still runs like the day it rolled off the lot (other than loss in battery capacity)

  • Thanks for the data Ryan. Great the hear confirmed what I already know, A friend with a 2014 Model S has over 200K miles on the car and has no plans to replace it. The free supercharging for life offered with those early models makes long term ownership very attractive. BTW, that car still looks and drives great with no major component repairs or replacements.

  • 3 million miles on volvo p1800 is highest I recall if I recall correctly. It was well past one million for sure. I was especially impressed because I got one myself old and used as my first car I didn't share with sister and it lasted nowhere near that. That guy obviously took very good loving care of his car.

    • @A K Two times. So if we split it the engine lasted more than 2.000.000 kilometers. Could have been more. The longest Tesla had four motors replaced before 1.000.000 km. And at least two batteries.

    • @Xanthopteryx The engine block was original, but the rest of the engine got rebuilt several times. No engine could last millions of kilometers on totally original parts.

    • More. 5.150.000 kilometers, then the original owner (bought it in 1966) died, in 2018. Volvo bought the car and are still using it, aiming for 6.000.000 kilometers.

    • @Pypaut Original engine and gearbox.

    • @TheEpic RiceMaker The same engine. The same gearbox.

  • Honestly if you don't mind the reduced range the battery can last as long as you want.

  • Trivia: 4:19 the image of the Tesla on a bridge. This bridge is famously used endlessly by car manufacturers for product photos and videos of their cars. It's called the Sea Cliff Bridge located on the coast of Wollongong, Australia. Along the side of it is a walkway covered all the way along in engraved padlocks with couples' names on them which is pretty crazy given it's a 600m long bridge.

    • good, its in Australia. I dread wrong-way drivers here in the US.

  • One factor that goes unmentioned in these battery longevity/replacement debates is the possibility of replacing an old battery with one that uses significantly newer technology that could well result in much longer range than the original spec. In that context, paying $10k+ for a new battery would be entirely justified.

    • There could be challenges regarding backwards compatibility but great point and possibilities.

  • As a Gen 1 Nissan Leaf owner (experiencing massive battery degradation >50% after

  • Also, in 2016, we took a ride from a Model S from the San Francisco airport to Santa Cruz area in the one of the first ones to reach 200,000 and have its battery changed. It was something that for us thinking more about a Tesla.

  • Ryan, I am going to buy at Y but not sure if I should wait for next battery configuration or just order now or before September as you have suggested in a recent podcast. Thank you, I appreciate your insights.

    • I’m going to answer for him. Basically any new batteries for the time being (4680) will not impact consumers at all. It is purely a cost savings measure for Tesla. IF there was a difference it’s almost guaranteed Tesla will software lock everything to be equal with the 2170’s. Currently the only car with the 4680 is a non orderable model y from the Texas factory called the “all wheel drive”. You may find one for sale in inventory and the way to know the difference is the range and that the model is just awd not long range or performance. The 4680 model y does 279 miles and I think the long range model y does 320 miles or something like that. Furthermore, tear downs of the 4680 cell show that it has nearly identical performance to the existing 2170. The assumption is that Tesla is trying to nail down manufacturing before changing cell chemistry.

  • You know what the greatest surprise take-away I got from this video? Literally none of the 200k+ mi Tesla's you referenced mentioned having to replace the shock absorbers. Tires, yes, but shocks that last more than 100k mi on vehicles like these with the extra weight they carry seems extraordinary to me!

    • I finally parted with a truck I had because I didn't want to put $2500 into suspension repairs and then have the engine or transmission to fail (235k miles original). For electric, if the battery is still good, I would fix the suspension. Holding out to replace that truck with the cybertruck.

    • @skep what model?

    • @GT Big Dog I've replaced 3 upper control arms

    • Tesla uses Bilstien shocks which are a higher level than most OEM shocks. I have heard of control arm replacement

  • Amazing video, Ryan. I’m sold. Not just for Tesla but EV’s in general. I have a Kia Niro EV, this gives me hope for the battery to outlive the 100K mi warranty enough to sell it and trade up when I hit 100K on yr 3. (I drive a lot)

  • I'm at 118,000 with my M3 LR, so I'm approaching that 120k.. Full charge went from 307 miles to 288 miles. (Edited as I misspoke the first time) I had to replace the Upper A-arms on the front for $701 and had to replace them around 60,000 miles; and rear cost me $600 around 110,000 miles. No other big issues.

    • @Tee M upper control A-arms. Cost me $701. I edited my comment above.

    • Struts cost you 1000? Damn. You mean suspension struts? That's very costly

  • Even at the extreme 30% degradation the car would be very useful. When an ice motor goes out it needs a complete rebuild at best.

    • @FrenchyTube Well, engines are very reliable today. What kills the car is rust and electrical problems. No one will ever pay that money to replace a battery in a car worth 1000-2000 USD. The car will have so many other faults so it is not worth it. I have had several cars. My parents too. People i know too. NO ONE have had trouble with the engine, but all the rest: Brakes, rust, electrical issues, paint, interior, suspension and so on. More and more fail, but the engine runs.

    • @Xanthopteryx thats a pretty rare scenario considering most cars that arent properly maintained don’t even last half as long. Just accept it, EV’s will last longer on average there’s infinitely less moving parts, cheaper to maintain and when the battery does go out in 10-15 years you can get a brand new one put in for 15-20k at most and you can go for another 10-15 years. Not many cars you can buy for that price new these days.

    • An ICE engine rarely goes out. A colleague of mine sold his car after 500.000 km. Petrol car. He really really did not do proper maintenance on that car... It still worked when he sold it.

  • Super curious about best practices and charging /maintenance habits to minimize battery degradation. What do we know about level 1 charging (trickle charging) vs level 2 charging vs Supercharging? Super curious and interested in ensuring long range with longevity on my upcoming Model Y.

    • Batteries degrade faster with higher charge rate, higher temps, and being left at a high rate of charge. There is a 2009 model s in Norway that still has 95% of the original battery capacity. This car has never been fast charged.

    • just put the limit when you charge to 80 percent or less on a daily use and put 100 only if you need to travel far

  • My Signature MX P90D with 236K+ is running great. Only lost 13% of it’s original 250miles with 8yrs/unlimited miles and still on the factory brakes. My biggest expense was losing the HVAC for the battery and cabin. I never charge the car to 100%. And 85% of my miles are supercharged. I will 17:24 own another ICE. Waiting on my Cybertruck!

  • You did a good job explaining EV vehicle's batteries. There are many 2017 Chevy Bolts on CS-tv that have reached well over a hundred thousand miles and their range capacity lost is similar to that of Teslas. I have a Chevy bolt that's lost only lost 3% of its capacity and I bought it used. It's a 2017 model. I still haven't gotten a new battery replacement on it because of the recall and it has 50,000 miles on the odometer. I'm waiting for the dealership to get a new battery. There are other people on CS-tv with videos that are garbage, talking about batteries having to be replaced at 100,000 miles. I was watching a video by Sorelle Amore Finance and she completely got most her facts wrong about electric cars and the batteries. I'm going to keep my Bolt and run it through the ground. Especially if I'm going to get a new battery. There's still a risk though. Hopefully, the new battery from LG chem will not catch fire on my Chevy Bolt. I'm not worried about it. That's what insurance companies are for.

  • cant' wait to see how the LFP ones will hold up

    • I'll be dead before the LFP batteries give up.

    • Much better since they're Iron based. Much more stable than Lithium and cheaper to build.

  • Would like to see how long these would last in a Canadian winter.

    • Maybe look to Norway. There are many Teslas (and other brands of EVs) on the road there, and have been for many years.

  • The comparison of iron batteries vs lithium would be interesting.

  • Thank you for the video! In comparison to Tesla costing $0.05/mile for maintenance, in 2012 a bough a new Honda Odyssey and it cost me $9,921.21 to drive 146,575 miles or $0.07 per mile (no accidents and all maintenance done on time per manufacturer warranty at a Honda dealer). Looking seriously into getting a Tesla next.

  • I loved this video…lots of useful info both from Telsa and people with their cars.

  • 2018 Model 3 long range here. It has 110k miles, original battery and about 4% degradation right now. I do about 50k miles a year now so I'll know in the next few years how many miles I'll get out of this battery.

    • @Trust but Verify No I haven't replaced the 12v. I might go ahead and do that before it goes bad.. thanks for the reminder. I very rarely use the brakes because i keep regen on the highest setting. The pads still look relatively new as of last year when i put tires on it. I generally leave brake fluid alone unless I have a problem or race a lot.

    • Did you have to replace the 12V battery? Would you wait till you get an alert that you need to replace it? Have you done any brake fluid flush or pad replacement?

  • I have a 2015 Model S P85DL with 178,000 miles and have only lost 10% of range after almost 200,000 miles. I have zero concerns of the battery going bad. They did replace the rear motor at 160,000 miles under warranty. I absolutely Love the car and could never go back to an ICE car. Excellent video, thank you so much for sharing!

  • Great presentation, thank you! Do you know how things are currently going with the battery repurposing/recycling?

    • @T Ö ‘The batteries degrade so fast in EVs’’...what!!?...didn’t you even watch the video? Batteries in EVs last longer than fossil fuel (ICE) engines which on average are shot at 150,000 miles. Sure, you do hear of ICE cars doing much more than that and in very rare cases some have got to a million miles but these have had oil changes every 5,000 miles, a huge expense in itself and many have had new top ends, crankshafts and all kinds of expensive work done to keep them going. Get yourself an EV if you want to keep a car for 20 years and do half a million miles.

    • @Kia e-Niro Diaries Encore It will be, because the batteries degrade so fast in EV:s. That is why I am not buying one. I need the range

    • Check out interviews with JB Straubel at Redwood Materials. He says they will produce enough materials this year to make 10 GWh worth of EV batteries. Right now their source material is old phone, laptop and other batteries, EVs are too new right now. Here in Europe we have the Northvolt/Audi consortium who have a pilot plant in Germany which has achieved 97% recycling and have already made new batteries from old ones...which mostly got totalled in accidents. In France Renault/Solvay have a pilot plant doing the same...there are others. They call it ‘urban mining’ and Mr. Straubel thinks it will be a bigger industry than actual mining within 2 decades.

  • I'd like to see what the "average" battery life is over time so that we can predict how long a modern battery should last. So far, my only costs for my MYLR has been charging. I haven't even hit tire rotation/replacement territory yet - nearing 10k miles. So far, I have had in-warranty work done (seat bottom repair and window/seal adjustment/reset). If I can get double my warranty period, I will be super happy. Long battery life is important because not everyone can afford to buy new cars, so folks will expect cars to last several years for each owner. I bought my first car with over 100k miles on it and it lasted for over 5 years (finish high school and all of college, into my first year post-college work). I think EVs will have "arrived" when the same feat is both possible and common.

    • The number of miles driven by just one owner in this story shows what you are looking for since most WONT drive a car for that long but if a car is sold to others each owner can drive it with confidence.

  • I just lost my modelS to an accident, it was one of the first 4000 built, when I got the car on Feb 8 of 2013, the projected range on a full charge was 271, just before the accident it was 258, after several full supercharger visits, I was thrilled with the the battery performance.



    • Thanks~~~~

    • 4.8% battery loss in 8 years?

    • That just sucks! Was the insurance payout reasonable?

  • One of my reasons for choosing a Tesla over the other manufacturers EV is that Tesla doesn't require any scheduled service appointments. Rotate tires and change cabin filters...that's it. The other companies want you to come in once a year for an expensive "check-up". They also want you to get coolant changes, etc where the Tesla's do not require any of that. The less you have to deal with any dealership visits, the better!

  • Model 3 lr 2021 August. I thought from day 1 mine said 348 miles at 100% soc. Currently it seems to be 328 miles at 100% soc with 48k miles. That's about 7% loss with a few long road trips and supercharging sparingly. Let's see if my degradation slows =b

  • A little disappointed with my 2020 Tesla Model Y Performance battery so far. The car is definitely the best vehicle I have ever owned in my opinion, but the battery isn't doing as well I could have hoped. I am currently at just under 16,000 miles on the odometer, at a little over 2 years of ownership, and I appear to get a 100% full charge claimed value of something usually in the 284 (+/-4 or so) range these days (perhaps a bit lower, as I haven't charged to 100% in the last month). Given the 315 mile original EPA rated range for my model of vehicle, this means I have lost around 10% so far. If the degradation rate doesn't slow down, and instead continues at the current rate, then there is a good chance I may reach the 70% retained capacity warranty level in maybe 6 years of total ownership. This is somewhat unfortunate in my opinion, as I do sometimes tow a trailer with the vehicle, and the immense range penalty associated with the aerodynamics of the trailer really does mean I need every last mile of real world range I can get. That said, I still like the car overall, and I can't think of a better car model currently on the market that I would rather own.

    • @Chris Fifield How is this the future? Why state a range fully charged and you cant charge above 80-90% and never bellow 10-20%. You leave out 30% in your example...

    • Never charge it above 90%, unless you have a long drive ahead of you. And never let it go below 20%. This will help with the longevity of your batteries

  • I’ve clocked just under 50k miles in 2 years on my LR Y and a full charge is now 298 (from 303) miles. I couldn’t be more pleased.

    • @John Doe that’s a full charge. I charged to 100% just to check after watching this video. I charge daily to 80%.

    • @isiahdead pool Roughly 20 times.

    • @Shawn Clemenson Southwest Ohio - Cincinnati area.

    • @John Doe 80% daily

    • @Donald Stinnett thank you for sharing

  • Alright y’all convinced me. I’m going down to Tesla and talking to them about getting one and how it would work with my ICE car as trade in or if I should private sell. I was most worried about battery replacement and warranty. This makes me feel much more confident. Also I’m currently renting a model 3 standard as my Toyota is in the shop getting repaired for carbon build up ($952 bill) and using it for Uber.

  • There are videos of owners who have trashed their Tesla's batteries. It's all about attending to good battery charging practices, especially where its subjected to intense summer heat.

  • 2013 Model S....sunroof ;) Love it...down to 239 miles per charge from 259.....but I'll be keeping this car forever.

  • One of the leaders on Tesla videos, you are. Thank you fro all the detailed information.

  • I do believe their is a video from Rich Rebuilds where Tesla wanted to replace an entre battery over a very small issue. An independent shop fixed the issue for much less than an entire battery.

  • Outstanding info and superb video! Thank you, Ryan! I’ve already shared your video too!

  • Great job Ryan, love your videos.

  • Even a regular car still working after 1 million miles is insane

  • Here's my question: are warranty battery pack replacements brand new assemblies, or are they "remanufactured" which would include a mix of used cells?

    • They are brand new batteries.

  • Ryan. That was awesome. Very good info. I learned a lot!

  • Ask your audience to check if they can get 1 cent/kW from their utility on Super off peak charging like we do with Georgia Power. A full year of driving for about $50.00 instead of $4,000.00 or more.

  • I am seeing 2% a year drop on my 2014 leaf, in its 9th year of service its around 18% down. Dont forget smaller batter gets cycled far quicker, expand the battery to 60kwh and my guess is it would be near the same as tesla, i often wonder if tesla dropped active cooling and spent the money on more cells, would u eventually break even? But enjoy a higher range to begin with. In mild climates i suspect this could be true.

  • Ryan thank you for all you videos! I'm waiting on delivery of a long range Y. Expected delivery is Nov-Jan. I was excited about the tax credit and didn't mind waiting till 2023. Then I heard the Y did will not qualify. Should I wait and possibly get the tax credit or upgrade to a performance and get this year? What would you do?

  • Very interesting video. Our Tesla M3 Long range has done 68k I hope ours will go the distance 🤞⚡💪🏽

  • Tesla created a new motor that should probably add to longevity also.

  • I have 122k+ on my M3P with minimal cost to service. Most were covered under warranty. No brake replacement yet. I’ve replaced the 12v on my dime once. And the driver seat frame is being replaced tomorrow for rocking at a cost of $500.xx or so. The biggest issue is flats and bent wheels as I have 20” low profiles but that’s not the cars fault. And the bumper was painted from someone hitting the car in a parking lot that was never caught. Original pack gets 282-285 mi at 100% originally 310.

  • Thanks for good coverage about Tesla longevity.

  • I lost 1.5% charge capacity in < 1 month on new model Y with 7500 miles of cross country traveling (9000 total) and supercharging to 90 to 95 % due to crappy facilities at TX superchargers and trying to skip the bad ones. Thankfully usually charge only at home and won't make such a trip again until supercharger network goes from making such trips possible to making them nearly as stress free as driving ioniq cross country the year before. Learned a lot about finding charger info and using autopilot to make next trip less stressful though and return legs N to S and E to W were much more relaxing. Didn't notice any loss over first 1500 with almost all home charging with most basic charger.

    • @Coroa There is absolutely no advantage to battery longevity by going down to 20% before charging. Yes, it gives the BMS a slightly better chance of accurately "guesstimating" your range or degradation but that's all. Lithium Ion batteries are least stressed in their mid and upper mid percentages. Of course the reason most people don't leave their EV at 20% is that it leaves the car with a very short range in case you need to go somewhere at short notice. It's OK with an ICE vehicle leaving it at 20% of a tank because they can drive 100 miles plus and stop for a few minutes to fill up if necessary. An EV may only have a real world useable range of less than 30 miles in the same circumstances ... and nobody enjoys getting close to the red zone whether in an ICE or an EV.

    • @Mark Eby your BMS only knows it's capacity at high charge, not low, it is out of sync. You need to let it discharge to lower than 20%, leave it be for at least 6 hours before plugging back in. That way your BMW will know actual capacity and after doing this several times you will start seeing range "climbing back". Actual real world range shouldn't change and as I said before, it is probably more around 1% loss I had same "issue" as Yours when had SR+ and always tried keeping at 80% because of low charge speed. Now I have LR and do this low charge recalibrate thing once in a while and I barely noticed any range change after 16k miles

    • @Mark Eby You should let the pack drain down to 20% whenever possible before charging it back up to 80%. For many Tesla owners, they average 50 miles a day usage, so that would allow 3-4 days of driving (depending on driving habits and climate/weather) between charges. Think about it, if you owned a gas car, would you refill the gas tank every day even if you only did 50 miles? Most people wouldn't. With that said, at least once or twice a month, drain the battery pack as low as you can (5% or less is a good number), then recharge it to 100% without using a supercharger. It you don't have a 240v charger at home this night take you a while to do. Anyway, this will help maintain peak battery performance and extend the pack's estimated life span. Try and limit the supercharging to when you really need it (like really long trips). This is the same thing Apple suggests owners do to get the most out of a new iPhone/battery.

    • @Paulius Vindzigelskis - thanks for the tip. I am simply dividing the miles of range listed by the % charge listed and comparing it to the original range of 328 which initially matched. At home I charge back to 80% every night instead of letting get low after 15 to 25 miles of driving. I only have a 5 mph charger so that seems the most practical.

    • I wonder how you measured that loss. the numbers on screen are only BMS estimates (even if you connect some OBD, you're getting BMS readings), after good charge/discharge cycles you can get range "back". to truly know the loss you'd need to disassemble battery and check each cell individually. pretty sure the actual loss is not even at 1%. That's the problem for all those articles, real loss is only known by Tesla when they do replacement/repair and can actually measure things Other way to measure practically would be to make same driving test in same conditions on same track every few hundred miles. But again, this needs to be controlled environment as anything can impact the range

  • My 2001 toyota still going strong never had a check engine light. Would be interesting to see how an EV will hold up after 20 years.

    • After more than a hundred years of development it's good to know that ICE can last a long time! Are all those 2001 Toyotas that are the same as yours still being driven around?

  • I’m shocked to see no regular replacement of suspension or control arms. Pretty wild.

  • 2012 Tesla owners: "200K miles in 10 years, I'm so proud!" 2017 Prius LA delivery/cab driver: "My odometer stopped at 400k few years ago..."

    • @OnlyTheBest Of course it is real. Why couldnt it be?

    • @Xanthopteryx wtf, this can’t be real unless everything inside was replaced

    • 1966 Volvo P1800, original engine, original gearbox: 5.150.000 kilometers. Still going. From 2018 a new owner though since the previous owner, who bought the car in 1966, died in 2018...

    • @jkacvbhijfn Toyota makes great vehicles. I love my Tundra. But as for EV, I bought Tesla.

    • @Marcos Erbach Still, someone will put different opinion than you, it’s not practical because of its design.

  • I am down 11% from original battery 4 years ago. Am I checking correctly? Current SOC is 83%/229 range. 229/.83=276 range at full charge. 310-276=34 miles lost. 34/310=11% range lost in 4 years(7.30.2018).

  • That 30% loss before replacement only applies to Tesla warranties. It does not need to be replaced when it reaches 30% after the warranty expires. Tesla is just guarenteeing that you will have at least 70% remaining after 8 years

    • When capacity loss significantly, it will accelerates your battery degradation

    • @D Strachan Tesla guarantees 70% battery capacity retention over the life of the battery and drive unit warranty. That means the Tesla warranty can be used to replace your car’s battery if its maximum capacity drops below 70% of its factory amount.

    • Its 20% loss, 120k miles or 8 years not 30%.

    • My model 3 will 215 miles range at 30% degradation. That will be plenty of miles for me when I retire.

    • So if it's 65% what does Tesla do? A new set of battery or refurbished battery that's at least 70%?

  • Any data on how low the percentage of degradation typically goes before total pack failure? For example, are there packs still on the road at, say, 60% degradation? For those who are out of warranty, I imagine many of them could tolerate quite a bit of range loss before the vehicle no longer meets their needs.

    • @Wayne Russell Yes, yet another advancement in storage. LFP are likely to be the most used chemistry based on material cost. Until/unless an even less expensive material mix is perfected, something like sodium or sulfur. But the higher cycle life of NCM should mean that it will be even less expensive to operate battery powered vehicles where performance is critical and where the amount of total weight is very important such as long distance trucking and flight.

    • @Bob Wallace Dahn shows how to get similar performance from NCM cells with restrained use: "The NMC811 cells greatly outperformed the Dalhousie LFP cells, which according to Dahn are equivalent to the best commercial LFP cells that they know of." "More than a million miles and a century of life" at the international battery seminar (IBS) held 28 -31 March 2022 in Orlando, Florida.

    • @Hilam Mandwee The lithium ion cells Tesla is now using stay at or above 90% for a long time. But eventually they decline to the point of being useless. As the EV industry moves to lithium iron phosphate (LFP) cells battery life will greatly increase. The LFP batteries I'm using with my solar panels are rated for 10,000 cycles before dropping below 80%. 10,000 cycles with a 250 mile range EV would be 2.500,000 miles. (10k x 250 miles) If your (initially) 250 mile range EV dropped to 80% range the vehicle would still have a 200 mile range.

    • They level off at 90 percent degradation

    • If one starts with a 240 mile range, for example, a 50% range loss is still a 120 mile range EV which should be fine for a 'second' car that just does commute/shopping tasks while the primary car gets used for trips.

  • When u do replace your battery outside of your warranty for $20K w/ Tesla, will the warranty for the replacement battery be for 8 yrs/or 150K miles again or 8/unlimited? My current MS85 it’s 8/ unlimited….will they offer the same 8/unlimited?

  • I liked the video, you went and researched a lot of real life people using real life cars, which is always a good and time consuming thing. Thanks for that! But, I have two comments regarding the video: 1) We are basing our conclusions here on the expected miles at 100% battery, right? Is there a possibility of Tesla's estimating software be lying on this numbers? Either by design, or by error. I would say yes, much like many on-board computers paint a very positive estimate on the car's mileage calculation. On gas powered vehicles, I use the gas on the pump and the trip odometer to calculate the REAL fuel consumption. On the electrical vehicle case, I would suggest a GPS tracking the miles really driven, or the miles read on the trip odometer, against the Wattage drawn from the wall. 2) My friend's 2nd generation Nissan Leaf, after just 6 years, has had a significant battery degradation. This is normal, but frustrating. Moreover, this can be seen as something normal to replace - which I get it - and can even be compared to the overall gas powered vehicle running costs, namely gas and maintenance. But, my main issue with this is: inflation on battery packs, especially on older vehicles. What is the price of a battery pack for a 1st Gen Tesla Roadster? Not even Tesla wants anything to do with those anymore. What is the price of a battery pack for a 1st Gen Nissan Leaf? The latest reports have shown a 300% price compared to the originally reported price. Thus, I would say: until OEMs make a commitment on repair ability and serviceability at fair prices for the older cars, the consumer will always be afraid! Especially in a moment where electricity costs are rising, and consumers are imagining: "What if everyone is riding their EVs, would the electricity price go through the roof, and I will end up spending more than with my current gas-powered vehicle?

    • Install solar panels on the roof or backyard of your home to help charge the home/car's batteries. Electricity price increases from the major providers will be much less of an issue or not even a problem at all. That's what I did.

  • I've had my 2022 model 3 LR since Dec 2021 and I haven't noticed any battery degradation yet. Honestly it usually takes me 55% of the battery to pick up my daughter 150 miles round trip. It only took 50% the last trip 😆

    • @T Ö it's almost as good at your typical 4 cylinder. Plenty for a daily commuter

    • Wow, that is a really short range. I would be forced to stop for recharging all the time. Guess EV:s are not for me

  • 4:56 I believe 4,000 is pronounced “Four Thousand” instead of “Four Hundred Thousand”. You were talking about charging cycles and increased the number by two orders of magnitude for one million miles. Hopefully, teslas have a range exceeding 2.5 miles per charge. ;-)

  • Similarly to this video, my internet search shows Tesla’s body parts start breaking down after 100,000 miles in average. That’s pretty common in the car industry. Toyota and Hondas break less and last longer in average. I wish Tesla made better long lasting cars in terms of their body parts. I’m actually surprised it doesn’t. That’s why I’m not switching to Tesla yet. I hope they put some work into that. My Toyota has 400k miles and I have never had to repair one single thing in it, just regular oil change and breaks. I drive it off road a lot because that’s where I live and I push it pretty hard and yet it keeps on going.

    • @Godstime Osarobo I hope so, but since Tesla’s track record is average on these issues, we’ll have to wait a few years to see if these new vehicles will actually do better. It’d be great to switch to Tesla especially since Autonomous driving level 4 should be here soon. We’ll see!

    • @Michael Gonzalez It’s so puzzling as to why that is!

    • The newer models with the structural pack and large gigacasting should solve these issues. Cybertruck should also solve this issue 😏

    • This! I simply cannot follow when shopping for something luxury but it isn’t as reliable as some consumer grade examples out there.

  • 1:15 My Tundra is about to hit 300,000 miles. I have both the F150 Lightning and Tesla Cybertruck on pre-order to replace it. I hope they pull my number before anything happens although I am told its a million mile motor. The engine has been maintained really well since new (have all paperwork) so maybe I am good.

  • I'm at 142,000 in my 2018 model 3. Full HV battery scan shows around 9% capacity loss (using kWh capacity available not mile estimate). Only significant repair is I had my steering column swapped ($1200) at 139,000 as a gear ⚙️ wore out and it was getting stuck. 12v battery was $80 swapped myself, wheel bearing needed swapped for $120 at 95,000. But that's really it. Original brake pads still and I'm on my 5th set of tires.

  • About 7% battery degradation for me in 95k miles and 4 years of driving - although that 7% was reached at about 75k miles, and there has been no further degradation in the last 20k miles

    • 7% is about 50-60km drop in range ... and thats on a good day in ideal conditions... if you live in a cold envirorment then you can say hello to a battery replacement in about 100000km or sooner

    • Wow, 7% is a significant drop in the most important aspect of an electric car - the range. I would not be happy with that

  • My experience is a bit different. I have a 2018 Model 3 with 80,000 miles on it. Repairs are almost non existent with control arms being the only thing so far for $250. I replaced the tires twice. While that is good, my battery degradation is on the bad end of any normal curve. When new I had a 310 mile range. At one point it went as low as 267 miles or a drop of 14%. I was told by Tesla as well as several CS-tvrs like Kim Tesla to run the car down below 10% charge and then charge to 100% to recalibrate the battery management system. There are some differences as some say when it is very low, leave it there and ping the car regularly for an hour and then charge it at a level 2 charger. Once it hits 100% do the same as far as pinging or opening the door to wake it up for an hour before driving it to get down to 90%. I did that 5 times and the range increase to 281. That was a bit over a year ago and now it stayed at 280 for awhile and suddenly dropped to 272. So I am down 12% after 4 years and 80,000 miles. Tesla service has said to expect 5% the first year and 1% each year afterward. I am nowhere near the 30% for battery replacement but it does have an effect on my 750 mile trips to my daughter especially in the winter. Does anyone know of other things to do to help?

  • The LFP batteries (Model 3 SR+/RWD) are the actual 1m mile batteries They last 3-5k cycles, so 4k cycles on average. That means ~1m miles.

    • The one million mile Dahn battery uses single crystal cathodes. CATL quoted 10% extra cost on a pack to use these. Not clear if Tesla uses them.

  • Also consider the base price or ownership cost.

  • Thanks for doing the research and making this video. I think I suggested this a while ago and I’m happy you did it. Definitely something that a lot of people should share with friends who are skeptical of electric vehicles for his overall heat them for no reason.

  • Other than tyres, and suspension parts, the TRUE issue is with the motive battery. I've seen Model S go 500K miles and others go 100 K miles before needing a replacement. DC fast and supercharging is very tough on its battery.

    • 332000km and 2/3 DC charged (mostly 50kW): 12.6% degradation.

    • Thanks~~~~

    • @ymcpa73 That's probably good advice. On the other hand, I have some friends who live in an apartment and own a Chevy Spark they bought used. They charge it through a regular old 110V outlet they paid to have run to their underground parking space. Admittedly, they don't get many miles of charge per day, but they mostly use the car for short trips around town. Their car's battery is really being babied! That said, I think your advice to someone looking for a used Tesla is generally sound.

    • If I was buying a used Tesla, I wouldn't get one from someone who lives in an apartment. They are likely supercharging their cars and probably to a high percentage to reduce charging trips. People who own houses are likely charging at home with slow chargers and probably rarely supercharge. Plus they are more likely to charge at 80% or below because they can charge overnight.

  • FWIW: It's just anecdotal, but my LR AWD Model 3 (late 2019 purchase) had a total battery failure at ~31,000 miles. After some stress not knowing whether they would do the replacement (they wouldn't even do any measurements at the service center for two weeks do make the replacement certain), it cost me all of $9.50 as a battery discharge fee (it was totally drained according to the app, go figure). The big out of pocket cost was the one-way tickets my wife and I had to buy to get back to our home 1500 miles away, since we had been on a road trip when the battery died. We couldn't get a loaner at home either for the two weeks we had one fewer vehicles at home.

  • My 2021 Model 3 SR+ is at 75000 km after 1.5 years of driving with about a 7-8% drop in battery, seems like too much

    • How many "watch how fast it can go in only three seconds" demo's have you done for family and friends? Are you a easy going or aggressive driver? How many times have you charged it up to 100%? How often do you charge the battery and to what percentage? Do you live in a warm or cold climate? These are just a few of the many variables that can affect battery life for any electric car.

  • Australian built Falcon sedans and wagons as taxies, were expected to touch 500,000km. My one was fine at 400,000km on first engine and trans.

  • Batteries have a calendar life, and will expire even if unused. All of this mileage discussion needs to be tempered by how many years before the battery needs to be replaced. With 8 year warranty I expect to get 10-12 years before battery replacement if I am not unlucky. Storing the car in a cool environment and at 50-80% SOC will help, and it might be possible to get 20-25 years of battery life.

  • Awesome video, very impressed with information 👏. Thank you.

  • EV is like a computer. It either works or it breaks. Mechanical things have a “semi-working” aspect like a engine running on 5 cylinders instead of 6 or a squeaking fan that runs perfectly fine. This means once it breaks, you NEED to fix it. You can’t just “run it broken”. The positive is that if it doesn’t break, it doesn’t break. It’ll keep going.

  • Is there data on how a battery behaves when it fails completely or at severe degradation? I mean like after 80% or 90% degradation. When will the battery fail completely? Will the more or less strait line degradation be steady throughout or at what point will the battery become unstable, and range is no longer predictable? We have all had cell phones that the battery hits a turning point where it will say there is charge remaining then just die because the battery has become unstable. Will EV batteries behave the same way and if so at what point? Has Tesla or anyone else tested this?

    • @- A13X - I understand I'm just wondering if anyone has studied EV batteries to absolute death of the battery and what it will look like. Everything I can find keeps pointing at replacing an EV battery at 25 to 35% degradation. I would like to know what happens when an EV battery is not replaced. When it is used until it fails completely. Will the car's onboard system be able to predict mileage (at least ballpark) when a battery is only capable of holding 20% of its charge? Consider the end of life or past end of life car market. If EVs are going to replace ICE (Internal Combustion Engine) vehicles there needs to be the equivalent of the modern day 1995 Honda civic. You know the car. It's got over 300k miles, the AC doesn't work anymore, the radio randomly turns off, the rust spots have been spraypainted... but it will get a teenager just starting out to his first job or a down on their luck dad back and forth to the store. A theorical 25- or 30-year-old Tesla that had a range of 250 miles degraded 80%... down to 50 miles of range would still be useful to such people. I'm wondering if tests have been done to see how EV batteries behave at such extreme degradation. These old ICE cars produce even more emissions since they are in such poor mechanical shape. Many have been stripped down to the absolute necessities to function making them extremely dirty. End of life or past end of life EVs would be a great alternative if the degraded batteries are dependable enough for such short trips.

    • Unfortunately the internal resistance of rechargeable batteries declines with each charge/discharge cycle and supercharging only accelerates the battery’s deterioration. While the batteries will last much more than a phone battery a lot of variables will determine the health of your battery. A car battery that has always been slow charged will last longer than one that has only been supercharged for example. It also depends the rate at which you’re discharging the battery as well as several other factors. Unfortunately the limitation to battery technology is just the laws of thermodynamics taking over.

  • this is the same with any car. u say right out the beginning with general maintenance. our last 99 solara had 400k+ miles and we changed coolant and fluids like every 50k miles.

  • This actually put a lot of my anxiety at ease about owning a vehicle I know close to nothing about. Even after all of my research that I've done to try to convince myself into owning an EV. The main parts of the vehicle was never my concern other than the battery. The information provided in this video and with other research done via the internet about factual research documents backing these claims. I feel owning an EV is just the cost effective thing to do.

    • ​@Nick B The decision is only made through emotion. Facts and data brings confidence into said purchase.

  • I was in Portugal a number of years ago and all the taxis were Mercedes diesel cars and they typically keep them on the road for at least 1million km and they said that is the typical life of the engine even though some go to 1.5 m

  • An electric engine doesn't clog itself with carbon buildups/sludge after a long time. ICE are pretty much always going to get messy and clogged eventually and if you ripped them apart or cleaned them perfectly they'd also laster longer, but it doesn't really negact the fact that electronics are a cleaner way to operate. It's something I've noticed with phones, game systems and other electronics. They almost never have a reason to break so long and they don't get too hot. No mechanical parts means no mechanical wear and no fuel combustion means no sludge.

    • Electric motor * An electric engine is a contradiction

  • 80k miles on my 2018 model 3 performance with standard aero rims and brakes. I have had no mechanical issues so far. Almost through my second set of tires, replaced the windshield twice, windshield wiper fluid once. Car charges 130kw faster than it did when I bought it, and chargers are everywhere now. Range has decreased to 270 miles but the faster chargers and greater amount of chargers have made travelling far faster and easier than when I first bought the car. I figure at around 10 years I'll likely need to spend some money to replace some mechanical parts but dang this thing is cheap to operate.

  • I wonder if some of these examples of Model 3 cars only losing 2-3% are cherry picking. I’d like to see a comprehensive data set for M3 and MY similar to the graphs we’ve seen for S and X, because I don’t think we can assume 3 and Y will be the same or better. After all, they were designed to be cheaper. My 2021 Model 3 LR AWD appears to be down about 4%-5% after only 16 months and 21,000 km (13,000 mi). (I typically see an estimated full-charge capacity of 542-545 km; when it was new it was 568 km.) And I generally baby the battery. The service manager at the local Tesla service centre said that’s good for a Model 3; he says up to 10% degradation in the first year is typical. I’m led to believe the curve does flatten out after that, just like we see with the S and X, and I’m not worried. But still, 5%-10% in the first year is more than I was led to believe from when I read and watched things like this before buying.

    • @conradce just do same cycle few more times as you get the chance, and you might get more range "back". I have LR with 16k miles, and keep doing this once in a while (around once or twice a month, normally weekends) and my BMS shows same 358 miles as brand new, no loss whatsoever. I don't charge back to 100% (only to 70-80% as usual) unless I am planning to travel and need that extra range. About estimation, no, Tesla shows only rated range based on capacity, not estimated. It only impacts range if outside is very cold and Tesla limits capacity due to cold battery. That's why I don't use it at all and switch to % as it is less confusing Currently, the only way to know degradation is to keep BMS synced and compare with original rated range. With BMS out of sync, no other stat will help as they are all BMS numbers... There is no technical difference between showing actual kWh or fixed rated range based on battery capacity. Only way to overcome BMS is to take battery apart and check each cell manually which would be right way to know exact capacity loss. Idk how Tesla measures it, probably rely on same BMS but maybe have a way to sync it locally Oh, and there is a way to see actual BMS reported numbers. Check out Tesla Bjorn channel

    • @Paulius Vindzigelskis I had actually tried that a few times in the past without much noticeable effect, but on Monday I had occasion to use most of the capacity of the battery on a long driving day. I had it charge to 100% overnight (ending just an hour or so before we were to leave), which I rarely do, but I wanted to avoid an inconvenient charging stop that day. I got back home at the end of the day with 12% remaining, and I let it sit at that state for a few hours. After doing that, the estimated range now seems to be around 553 km or so (out of an original rating of 568), implying a degradation of more like 2%-3% instead of the 4%-5% I was seeing. I’m guessing that 2%-3% loss probably is roughly right for my car’s age and distance? Or, it’s finally gotten use to summer. I’ve heard that it uses a smoothed average pack temperature in the estimate, and that smoothing might be over a long period. I don’t know how long though, nor how reliable that information was. As for removing the range estimate, I would only support that if they gave us direct access to the battery’s capacity estimate in kWh instead. As it currently is, at least I know that the range estimate in km (or miles) is related to the car’s estimate of its current capacity in kWh by a simple constant that is derived from the EPA test cycle. (In the case of my particular car, that constant is 136.7 Wh per km.) I’ve been meaning to lobby Tesla to give us access to some of the hidden battery stats, especially numbers that would allow you to know the battery’s current state of health/degradation. But I don’t even know how to reach them in a way that the request will be seen. My local service centre flat out refused to tell me numbers that I knew they had access to.

    • try few cycles of discharging battery bellow 20% and leaving for at least 6 hours before plugging in (I do that weekends when car is not in use). This will give time for BMS to sync properly at low charge. High charge You prob already do with setting limit at 70-90%. Your BMS is probably out of sync. I noticed that the battery "degradation" is much lower when I do that instead when I was just trying to keep at 80% all the time. That's why I think Tesla should remove rated range as it is just purely confusing.

  • But the question is how many door handles have been replaced 😂

  • Wish your stats were applied to all Teslas. My 2019 Model 3 Performance charges to 282 Max and can travel approximately 190 miles on a full charge at speed limit No AC If traveling via Navigation to a place 220 miles away with a full charge of 282 I would have to charge again before arrival?

  • I’m at 102K miles on my 2020 and I thought I had a lot 😨

  • I'm actually the owner of that "424k mi" Model S from The Drive article (now the car us at 434k mi). Unfortunately, like lots of articles, they left out a few bits of info, and made some additional assumptions. As of right now, the car still retains its 2nd pack (approaching somewhere in the neighborhood of 180-190k mi), and has ~87% capacity compared to new. Not mentioned in the article (though I believe it was addressed in the video the article was about) is that the front drive unit was actually replaced, though not until ~375k mi. The rear drive unit is still original to my knowledge. Also worth noting, I purchased the car from its original owner in Sept of 2020, at which time the car was nearly exactly 5 years old (build date of Aug 2015). At that time, it has 408k mi on it, which means the previous owner (who used the car for Uber full time) put on an average of 82k mi per year! I'm actually planning on making an update video on the car soon (and also have a few others posted on my channel). It is my daily driver, and I actually just got back from a ~2500mi road trip with it earlier this week! I actually work on these cars for a living (at a 3rd party shop, not for Tesla), and there are definitely some versions of the S that are much more problem prone that others, particularly the early models, and pretty much anything that has a Large Drive Unit (RWD or Performance).

    • The drive unit failures you have experienced have nothing to do with the battery, but are rather caused by a design flaw in the Large Drive Unit (or LDU). The most common cause of drive unit failure is a leaky rotor coolant seal. When the seal goes bad, it leaks coolant internally into the LDU, where it has no place to escape and essentially "pools up". As I'm sure you can imagine, Water + HV electronics = bad time... We rebuild a lot of these drive units at the shop where I work, and we also add a drain kit to prevent catastrophic damage to the drive unit if/when the seal wears out (which it will). If you want to avoid those issues, then it's best to steer clear of cars equipped with the LDU, which includes: All RWD and Performance Model S/X from 2012-2021 (pre-Palladium), as well as the 2012-2014 Toyota RAV4 EV, and 2014-2017 Mercedes B-Class. (Note: AWD non-Performance versions of the Model S/X do not have the LDU, and do not suffer from these issues)

    • I drive a 2014 model S and do rideshare with, it has 208,000 miles on it. I did my 1st brake job this week, brakes and rotors, what other car can go that far on a set of brakes? I also had to replace the drive unit, or motor for the 3rd time. First 2 times were under warranty, this one cost me 6K. I'm hearing the 85KW battery is tough on the drive unit. Not sure why, but I won't be buying another Tesla with that battery in it. Anyway looking to upgrade to a model X, while waiting for my Cybertruck.

    • @Joe update video has been posted!

    • Please do an update video

    • Yes good to hear 3rd party independent Tesla service options exist for the older cars.

  • You should do a video on the infrastructure of being a fully electric city. I cannot wrap my head around the city like Chicago or New York and the cost associated with supplying every vehicle and electric station the solar or power company owned supplying that to every spot in the city streets. And then with Chicago And their parking restrictions during the winter time months and overnight hours etc. a real life scenario is I believe to be impossible

  • 2019 m3 LR. I bought it used at 15k and used it for ridesharing and delivery; it’s up 85K. At a full charge it’s giving me 293 miles from 310. I had 12V replaced around 60k, bushings and control arms replaced at 85k. It all costed me $800 in car repairs including smash me plates. Tires around $900 since I swap them out every year. I plan on getting upgrades such as sway bars, coils and wheels. It’s a fun car to drive.

  • Are you able to use new technology in a replacement battery pack?

  • A friend’s Model S is almost up to 500k, and his costs have been a tiny fraction of an equivalent ICE car. (He’s a professional driver and on the road an awful lot.) He would never EVER go back to an ICE vehicle. He has had no MAJOR parts replaced, just things like door handles and a couple of suspension parts, and just ONE set of rotors and brake pads. And of course, he has saved a FORTUNE compared to the cost of fuel.

    • @Jeff Schlagel I have done various labour work for a variety of off grid setups. Lots of people have panels that survive storms. I have never seen one get damaged and I live in a wooded area that is near the ocean and mountains and gets large storms. If a panel gets destroyed, you replace one, not the whole system. Also the warranty is 25 years, so during that period manufacturers pro rate the panels value. also, most panels last longer than the warranty, they just loose production efficiency, dropping to 85-90% after 25 years, but maintaining energy production. how often do you replace the windows on your house from damage? Grid storage batteries last 30+ years if setup properly and treated correctly. Solar and wind are cheaper than coal over a 25 year life cycle, even once you factor batteries, as coal fired and gas fired peak-er plants require exponentially greater maintenance(both man power and parts) and continually need fuel that has to be mined. I hope this information is helpful!

    • @dsnmttr where are you going to get your power when those panels are damaged?

    • @dsnmttr who is going to pay for the solar panels when they are damaged by storms?

    • @dsnmttr so what part of the country do you live in where the sun shines 24/7?

    • @Jeff Schlagel which means solar panels installed now will pay themselves even faster 😉

  • 2014 model s 68,000 miles. Drives perfectly

  • Wow excellent diagnosis on the EV Experience Thank You

  • What I'm having a problem understanding is driving style determine the battery life. So putting a finger on battery life is dependant on driving style. How do you determine battery degradation on the car?

  • Hey Ryan, in your opinion, would trickle charging (Or Level 1 charging) an EV for the lifetime of the vehicle extend the battery life?

    • With this size of battery, your house hold 220 voltage, amps, will basically be trickle charging. Won't be a whole lot of heat be generated... This is only my opinion. I drink beer and know stuff.

    • @electrified0 absolutely not true. When then does Toyota limit their charging on their Prius and all other hybrids? Because they’re trying to squeeze life out of batteries. Toyota limits both the top and bottom end of charging for good reason.

    • It’s possible. A better option or combined would be to care for the vehicle. Regular maintenance and smooth driving skills. The faster you go the faster you replace energy and parts.

    • Even on phones which have no active battery cooling whatsoever, fast charging is not demonstrated to reduce battery lifespan in actual testing since even the basic thermal management systems in phones will slow charging rate if it gets too hot. Teslas have liquid cooled batteries, for contrast, so I'd expect no noticable difference.

    • @Bryan Whitton I went with the 19" Gemini wheels which get the Model Y 330mi of range. I removed aero covers on the gemini wheels which cuts range by a few percent though